We love this neighborhood canteen, from the owners of Buvette and I Sodi, and not just for its rustic antiques-strewn charm. We love that it caters to all our appetites at any time of day, from an impromptu afternoon snack to a well-crafted cocktail to a group feast. Special attention is paid to all manner of cooked and raw vegetables: an extravaganza of chicories in the winter; puffy fried squash blossoms come summer. And equal care is taken with classic pastas, and even something as elemental as grilled chicken. Bonus points for the signature svizzerina, a hand-chopped steak cooked this side of medium-rare, leaking juice and adorned with nothing more than a clove of garlic and rosemary sprig.