Vic’s

As a onetime understudy of Missy Robbins and Mark Ladner, chef Hillary Sterling excels in big, bold, and brightly acidic flavors, often ensconced in unassuming packages — like sweet fried onions dusted in a punchy dehydrated-tomato-and-parmigiano powder, and chile-spiked cabbage that eats like Italian kimchee. Pastas appear in shapes to confound the most jaded pastavore. (When was the last time you had creste di gallo or potato-stuffed occhi?) And pizzas distinguished by featherlight crusts and significant blistering are good enough to compete with the city’s best, but we might like the crescent-shaped calzone even more.