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89 Impressive

A seasonal approach to pizzas, pastas, and more in a lively Noho setting.

31 Great Jones St., New York, NY, 10012


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The lowdown

As a onetime understudy of Missy Robbins and Mark Ladner, chef Hillary Sterling excels in big, bold, and brightly acidic flavors, often ensconced in unassuming packages — like sweet fried onions dusted in a punchy dehydrated-tomato-and-parmigiano powder, and chile-spiked cabbage that eats like Italian kimchee. Pastas appear in shapes to confound the most jaded pastavore. (When was the last time you had creste di gallo or potato-stuffed occhi?) And pizzas distinguished by featherlight crusts and significant blistering are good enough to compete with the city’s best, but we might like the crescent-shaped calzone even more.

Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite

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What you need to know

Recommended DishesBorsa, $21.

DrinksFull Bar