That’s chef-owner Kurt Gutenbrunner glaring down on his diners — or rather, it’s his portrait, painted by his pal Julian Schnabel. The piece contributes to the artsy, intellectual ambience of the markedly grown-up room, a cosseted foil to the rambunctious Spotted Pig up the street. People come here to dine in peace on Austrian Michelin-bait like spaetzle with rabbit, white asparagus in season, and New York’s preeminent Wiener schnitzel, properly accoutred with vinegary potato-cucumber salad and a spoonful of lingonberry jam. Gutenbrunner has made a cottage industry out of Viennese kaffeehaus culture at his Café Sabarsky uptown, which means you should definitely order dessert. And there may be no better place to delve into the wide world of Austrian wine grapes, from Blaufränkisch to Zierfandler.