Yakitori Totto

No one practices the oddball art of yakitori with more authority and better results than this second-story Theater District bar and restaurant where all-business grill chefs season, skewer, and cook over charcoal every conceivable chicken part, from skin to tail. There are thighs, hearts, livers, gizzards, necks, “oysters,” and the ever-popular “soft knee-bones.” It’s all delicious, especially the skewered chicken “meatballs,” tender torpedos of minced meat prepared three ways: plain, glazed with sauce, or stuffed in shishito peppers.