Yiasou

It is hard to imagine a nicer place to eat grilled fish than at an al fresco table overlooking clusters of boats bobbing in the bay. But if you can’t snag an outside table at this Greek eatery, the dining room has plenty of bygone-era charm. (Think: painted murals of fishing boats, reveling dancers, and Greek gods interspersed with oversize floral decorations that are likely leftover from the previous night’s rehearsal dinner or birthday party.) Pair your entrée — maybe a whole branzino, red snapper, dorado, or sea bass fried over a charcoal grill and elementally dressed with olive oil, lemon, and a showering of salt — with a selection of cold spreads and warm pita. Particularly memorable: the spicy feta dip (tyrokafteri) that, in addition to a briny punch and pleasant burn, imparts hints of smokiness and is brimming with minced fresh cucumber and softened red pepper.