Brooklyn Brine

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It seems right that one pickle-maker with a history of mixing the old and the new has got 600 pounds of ramps getting all fizzy right now in old bourbon barrels in Gowanus. Brooklyn Brine founder Shamus Jones's new storefront sells its full line up front, plus an ever-changing menu of completely fresh and seasonal lacto-fermented produce, including sunchokes and asparagus this summer. Because they are fermented and aged in whiskey barrels — not simply brined and dropped into jars — these pickles are only available at the store, which is also used for classes. "Rather than looking into a way to bring our production up and finishing 15,000 jars a day, we wanted to do something different," he says, gesturing to a batch of garlic scapes. "It tells you when it's ready." — Hugh Merwin