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Gael Greene

August 3, 1970 | Feature
Everything You Always Wanted To Know About Ice Cream But Were Too Fat to Ask

". . . As the establishment cracks and institutions crumble, it is no wonder we reach out to ice cream. It is a link to innocence and security, the last of the eternal verities. Or is it? . . ."

August 18, 2008 | Insatiable Critic

The crowd skews young at Delicatessen, a new ­comfort-food initiative from the folks at Cafeteria.

August 11, 2008 | Insatiable Critic

Michael White and partner Chris Cannon bolted the door at L’Impero for two weeks and invented Convivio.

July 21, 2008 | Insatiable Critic

Clearly, Jean-Georges Vongerichten is betting our town’s noodleheads will be moved by Matsugen.

June 16, 2008 | Insatiable Critic
Hundred Acres

There is no mule tethered to a lamppost out front of Hundred Acres.

May 19, 2008 | Insatiable Critic
Wildwood Barbeque

Faux smoke and grime above Wildwood’s bar want to suggest that barbecue belongs to the city.

May 12, 2008 | Insatiable Critic

Alain Ducasse’s need to be embraced by New York has a real chance for fulfillment at Benoit once he whips the kitchen up a bit.

May 5, 2008 | Insatiable Critic
Padre Figlio

I was put off by an old-fashioned lack of focus in an early visit to Padre Figlio.

April 28, 2008 | Insatiable Critic

Tet is the most ambitious effort yet from Saigon-born Steven Duong.

April 21, 2008 | Insatiable Critic
La Rural

La Rural, an Argentine bistro, looks a lot like its predecessor, Pampa.