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ARCHIVES

Gael Greene

December 25, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
Klee Brasserie

Marinate an Austrian in the culture of New York eating for a while, and don’t be surprised if he comes up with a menu like chef Daniel Angerer’s (ex of Fresh) at his new Klee Brasserie.

December 11, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
Gordon Ramsay at the London

"Most everything else is a work-in-progress.

December 4, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
The Russian Tea Room

A serious chef reigns in the kitchen of the optimistically resurrected Russian Tea Room.

November 20, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
Metro Marché

Metro Marché is a courageous gambit in a corner of the Port Authority bus station, turning out amazingly good brasserie dishes at astonishingly gentle prices.

October 30, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
Porter House New York

The menu is a pledge of allegiance to American steakhouse familiars—some of them sensational.

October 16, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
Café Gray “Brasserie”

For deliciously ostentatious swank that’s infinitely cheaper than a status handbag, you must try the $85 black-truffle pizza on the new “Brasserie” menu in the bar at Café Gray.

October 9, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
I-Chin

I’m surprised by the splendidly revved-up flavors at I-Chin. Yes, I’m sneezing and I feel peppery heat coming out of my ears. Yet I couldn’t be happier with the fiercely peppered ribbons of stir-fried chicken the waiter just snipped free of its banana-leaf girdle.

October 2, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
Picholine

Will a younger crowd be drawn, as chef-owner Terrance Brennan hopes, by this new stripped-down elegance (sedate if not soporific), new sound (Diana Krall instead of Pavarotti), and new pricing ($64 for two courses) from the updated menu?

September 25, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
Je’Bon Noodle House

Bare-bones plain, cheap, and earnest, Je’Bon Noodles seems oblivious to our town’s bold new world of pulsating Asian eateries-on-steroids.

August 28, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
Darna

New York still lacks that great Moroccan restaurant—but until it arrives, Darna, with its modest Casbah accents and passion to please, will do.