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Gael Greene

August 10, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
The North Fork Table & Inn

A duo of fine-dining veterans, burned out by the city and smitten with Long Island’s rich local harvest, have made the brand-new North Fork Table & Inn an imperative year-round detour in a neighborhood that claims to be starved for quality.

June 26, 2006 | Insatiable Critic

How can it be that Ron and Colleen Marnell Suhanosky have been tending this offshoot of their Nantucket restaurant for three months and it hasn’t popped up on our foodie radar?

June 19, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
Central Park Boathouse Restaurant

In the past, a Boathouse table was basically about inhaling natureónever mind the food. Today the kitchen sends out thrillingly pure crab cakes, and a lush salmon-and-oyster tartare with a dribble of caviar.

June 12, 2006 | Insatiable Critic

The scarred tile floors are real, and the abundant hills of tantalizing, gently priced food are real, too, a joy in this era of foam and froth. But everything else at the new Dressler is whimsy.

June 5, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
Le Cirque

Le Cirque old-timers will be relieved to find crispy pig’s feet, tête de veau vinaigrette, and unabashedly retro quenelles de brochet.

May 22, 2006 | Insatiable Critic

With Linda Japngie, its fourth chef in just eighteen months, in situ, the quirky little bistro Barmarché picks up the quickening pulse of this neighborhood just east of Soho.

May 15, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
Capital Grille

155 E. 42 St., nr. Third Ave. 212-953-2000

May 8, 2006 | Insatiable Critic

I worry that the drive to reinvent the octopus has dizzied Michael Psilakis, the inspired young chef-owner of the Upper West Side’s Onera, since Donatella Arpaia lured him east to co-reign at her new, handsomely outfitted Dona.

April 24, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
Crema Restaurante

Julieta Ballesteros has graduated from teeny Mexicana Mama in the village to a narrow earth-toned spot of her own.

April 17, 2006 | Insatiable Critic
A Voce

All those years chef-partner Andrew Carmellini spent pleasing Daniel at Café Boulud inform everything that’s wonderful right now at the new A Voce.