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Table of Contents


April 29, 2008 Issue

Cover Story

New York Look: Fall 2008

Fashion has always been an industry that champions the singular: the one designer whom all others appear to emulate; the individual model who epitomizes contemporary beauty. But as much as the fashion world loves to single out, it also loves the blurry, unfocused excitement of the collections. The fall 2008 collections were filled with ideas both promising and worrying, unifying and contradictory, inspired and exhausting.

JOURNAL

The Surroundings

Sometimes preshow tension gets so thick in the photographers’ stands that fights break out over who sits and stands where.

Hello, I Must Be Going

Some designers relish the postshow happy lap. Others can barely be coaxed to wave. A lexicon of farewells.

Cathy Horyn to Fashion Shows: Drop Dead

The most powerful fashion critic in the world thinks eliminating the runways, and even her job, wouldn’t be such a bad thing.

This Year's Girl

Model Ali Stephens out-walked the competition.

Four Other Faces

These dewy-faced eye-catchers were the most favored of fall.

Everybody Does Go-Sees

Not everybody makes it. Forty runway candidates audition for casting agent James Scully.

Chanel Iman Grows Up

The ambitious model is in the tricky transitional phase between "rising star" and "established face."

I Wear Size Zero

Spindle legs, visible ribs, toothpick arms. This is the new male ideal? Somewhere, Hedi Slimane is smiling.

Load the Dishwasher. Dress the Model.

The last few hours before Maria Cornejo’s show are not, by any stretch of the imagination, glamorous.

Better Fun Than Yours

London’s Fashion Week is disorganized, late, and raucous. More Champagne, please!

Behind Every Great Designer

By knowing just where to put a brooch, Katie Grand glosses a designer’s collection.

First Lunch, Then Fashion

Hollywood stylist turned designer L’Wren Scott doesn’t need 400 people at her show.

The Hair Kinda Floated

A coiffure-meister’s thought process.

A Very Furry Season

Some mink and fox is typical for fall. This time, it was more than some.

DOCUMENTARY

Sideshows

Magnum photographer Christopher Anderson captures the weeks' gorgeous moments.

REPORT

The Takeaway

Even after the models have changed into jeans, the tents have been disassembled, and the designers have left, a fashion show doesn’t really end.

“I Love Fashion!” “I Love the Girl!”

The force that is Karl Lagerfeld powers through Chanel’s preshow prep like a black-clad dervish.

Halston, Designer

Harold Koda explains the design legacy of a man more known for his Studio 54 time.

The Show of the Season

Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquière sharpened every idea he touched, starting with the little black dress.

Meryl Streep at Baby Phat?

Some celebrity-and-designer front-row matchups work to everybody’s disadvantage.

Runway Slideshows

Trend Mash-up

Wearable soufflés, logic-defying hats, attention-grabbing legwear, and more.

Oh My Goth

Head-to-toe black, trailing lace, ominous accessories.

Furrr!

Everywhere the same message: plush and plusher.

This Is Not Breakfast at Tiffany’s

In a season of rethought classics, the little black dress comes back.

The Tuxedo Develops

New proportions (short or long jackets) and materials refresh the androgynous favorite.

The White Shirt Advances

In its new incarnation, the white shirt loses all prior associations.

The Bronze Age Begins

Fall’s metallics glow dimly, not with Vegas glare.

Just Because It's Lace...

... doesn’t mean it’s fussy.

Even Microtrends Matter

Not every idea is destined to dominate.

Jump in the Leaf Pile

Fall’s colors sound like a walk through the woods in October.

The Party Moves

Sparkly surfaces put pants into contention for most favored eveningwear consideration.

Men Will Mix It Up

Maybe not every guy will rush to add a fluffy fur coat to the closet, but the option is there.

The English Dandy Rocked

Velvet suits cut narrow conjured the country gentleman who’s been listening to Exile on Main St.

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