Brazilian-style barbecue is an all-you-can-eat prix fixe meatfest, about as un-nouvelle as one could imagine. At the cavernous Churrascaria Plataforma, waiters rove the floor, each with a two-foot skewer or a big plate holding a monstrous, meaty offering. Flip the little indicator disk at the edge of your table to its green side, and they stop at your table and carve as you neatly pluck off the pieces with a pair of tongs. They don’t stop coming (sirloin! skirt steak! chicken! sausage! ribs! mussels! salmon!) until you turn your indicator back to red. Riodizio (417 Lafayette Street; 529-1313) is handsomer and has better side dishes than Churrascaria Plataforma, but you go for a meal like this wanting meat, plain and simple, and Plataforma’s is perfect.