501 11th St., Park Slope, Brooklyn
There are many husband-and-wife teams working restaurants in the city, but to bea true mom-and-pop joint, you need a real live baby. That’s what you get atApplewood, in Park Slope, where this winter, Laura Shea worked the front of thiselegant, neighborly restaurant with her happy, fat-cheeked daughter, Tatum,nestled on her chest in a sling. Her husband, David, mans the range back in thekitchen, and he isn’t turning out warmed-over bricks of baked ziti, either.Specialties at Applewood include a rich, smooth cauliflower gratin, sautéedskate spritzed with brown butter, and little bricks of braised pork belly glazedwith apple cider. There’s a crackling open hearth in the restaurant, and asbefits any proper family feed in this new, hyper-health-conscious era, all thegrub is rigorously hormone-free.