50 Clinton St.
In our experience, food that’s made to look like art doesn’t often taste verypretty when you put it in your mouth. But Wylie Dufresne has been dabbling withdifferent palettes of color and taste in his gleaming downtown food laboratoryfor two years now. Finally, after much effort and experimentation, the resultsare beginning to show. Who knew, for instance, that the deep, lustrous red colorof fresh venison complements the soft, creamy green of edamame-flavored icecream? Who knew you could fry mayonnaise in little sugar-cube squares and platethem with a strip of vanilla-colored calf’s tongue, and long, Miró-like streaksof tomato molasses? More to the point, who knew inspired, even beautiful disheslike this could taste so good?