1. BLT Fish
An all-American lobster roll made by a classically trained French chef.
21 W. 17th St., nr. Fifth Ave.; 212-691-8888
2. Pearl Oyster Bar
The paragon, famously served on a Pepperidge Farm “top-loading” hot-dog bun.
18 Cornelia St., nr. Bleecker St.; 212-691-8211
3. Mary’s Fish Camp
In bursting-at-the-seams style and quality, identical to Pearl’s, where the chef-owner used to be a partner.
64 Charles St., at W. 4th St.; 646-486-2185
4. The Mermaid Inn
In a daring break from hot-dog-bun hegemony, this tidy version is served on a racy brioche hamburger bun.
96 Second Ave., nr. 5th St.; 212-674-5870
At $14, a bargain version, slapped together by a former Maine lobsterman.
292 Fifth Ave., nr. 30th St.; 212-465-1888