Gimme Sole

This fall, accessories designers are waging war against that dreaded fashion scourge – the boring shoe. Their weapons of choice? Everything from courtly brocade mules to prim pony slingbacks to sexy stiletto boots. Whether you fancy a dainty satin-and-beading kind of thing or something tougher and hard-edged, take a walk through these boutiques. You’re guaranteed to please both your insteps and your imagination, because this year, there’s almost too much to choose from.

650 Madison Avenue, near 60th Street (212-644-5945)

Good news for those with a fear of heights: Diego Della Valle’s bright, airy five-month-old flagship boutique is packed with sidewalk-friendly shoes that won’t leave you looking flat and tired. The core collection of loafers and driving moccasins is gussied up in colorful suede and pony; boot shapes range from flat molded-leather ankle styles to knee-high riding versions (and they come in the same fetching fabrics).

* Cube-soled green leather loafer, $325.
* Pony loafers, $550.
* Olive-green pony riding boots, $895.

Manolo Blahnik
31 West 54th Street (212-582-3007)

Enough said about the Stiletto King’s evergreen slingbacks (diehards drone on about how they define even the flabbiest calves and are “comfortable” to pop around in). Most of us won’t plunk down $400 for shoes that will spend the day hidden in a cubicle, but for glamorous nights on the town, know that even the wackiest evening styles here will look spot-on for many, many seasons. This season, Blahnik’s most mouthwatering creations are, of course, in pony skin.

* Camel pony stiletto mules with brown mink trim, $685.
* Red pony slingbacks, $515.
* Chocolate-brown lace-side stiletto boots, $1,150.

Christian Louboutin
941 Madison Avenue, near 74th Street (212-396-1884)

New Yorkers are still learning to pronounce his name correctly, but Christian Louboutin’s old news to the kind of Parisian party girl who cringes at the thought of day-to-evening footwear (and who doesn’t have to worry that the pretty red soles on these shoes will get scuffed on the subway). The evening mule is where Louboutin lavishes most of his couture-style design sense, and the most delectable are in splashy fabrics: navy brocade, blue-and-lilac-striped silk, even plastic-covered collages of Louboutin’s own travel souvenirs.

* Blue-and-lilac-striped silk mules, $350.
* Plastic-covered-collage mules, $310.
* Black suede T-strap stilettos, $470.

Stephane Kelian
158 Mercer Street (212-925-3077)

While still popular with wedgie wearers, longtime tastemaker Stephane Kelian is once again catering to the true footwear fetishist – and there’s no doubting that his lean, mean, racy shoes and boots will hold their own with the season’s sharpest clothes. Ankle-strap pumps and knee-high boots have a fascinating thick set-back stiletto heel. Heights vary from sensible to vertiginous. Aim high – the effect’s worth feeling a little giddy.

* Chocolate-brown knee-high stiletto boots, $695.
* Copper embossed-leather ankle-strap pumps, $385.
* Cream lace-up oxfords with black lug soles, $280.

Via Spiga
765 Madison Avenue, near 65th Street (212-988-4877)

Via Spiga spoils twentysomething tourists and East Side Euro types with lots and lots of chic, youthful shoes that don’t cost a fortune. The store’s current preppy-schoolgirl-ish collection has plenty of old faves – classic loafers, riding boots, and kitten-heeled slingbacks – but they’re dressed up in vibrant colors and of-the-moment fabrics that won’t make you feel like you’re back in the lunchroom.

* Red calfskin loafers with pewter buckles, $170.
* Open-toed evening slides with black-and-white beading, $158.
* Brown leather riding boots with lug soles, $305.

Sigerson Morrison
242 Mott Street (212-625-1641)

Sigerson Morrison is carrying on with the slingbacks, kitten-heeled pumps, square-toed ballet flats, and skinny boots that keep the younger set streaming downtown after lunch at La Goulue. In a nod to current trends, the design team is producing its classic styles in a handful of the season’s most coveted fabrics and colors, including pony skin and metallic finishes.

* Wine pony slingbacks with stiletto heels, $356.
* Silver mules with pointed toes, $254.
* Black post-heel high boots, $403.

Mark Schwartz
45 Spring Street (212-343-9292)

Mark Schwartz opened his first shop last August in NoLIta, but he’s no newcomer to high-end shoemaking – his résumé includes fifteen years’ experience with stars like Richard Tyler and Roger Vivier. For his own collection, Schwartz starts with the sleek, modern shapes you’d expect, then takes a detour into the unexpected – say, a Lucite sling on a pony pump or whipstitched seams on a pair of boots.

* Python ankle-tie stilettos with Sabrina heels, $295.
* Giraffe-print high-heeled pony sandals with plastic slingbacks, $280.
* Black lace-front stiletto boots with black beading, $595.

Patrick Cox
702 Madison Avenue, near 63rd Street (212-759-3910)

Uptown hipsters with downtown fantasies stop in for shoes that are groovy enough for lunch at Cafe Gitane but still hint at oh-so-correct Zip Codes. For fall, Cox offers up his predictable dose of mod (think go-go ankle boots and pumps with severely squared-off toes) in sharp black, white, orange, and fuchsia combos. But he keeps the mood fancy with the occasional sharp, rectangular metal heel or a touch of mohair.

* Orange leather loafer, $205.
* Silver satin mule with rosette appliqué and upturned toe, $332.
* Black ankle boots with cutaway dot details, $450.

628 Madison Avenue, at 59th Street (212-751-9082)

You know Bally’s core business – endless variations on the sensible ballet flats, loafers, or pumps that pack in the regulars season after season. What you’ve probably forgotten is Bally’s knack for keeping alive key, moneyed styles from the past that make an occasional comeback – like leather boots with tapered wooden heels that would look right-on with your kick-pleated A-line skirt.

* Ankle boots with side buckles, $325.
* Black napa-leather flat loafers with asymmetric toes, $195.
* Olive cascara cowboy boots, $470.

Nine West
675 Fifth Avenue, at 53rd Street (212-319-6893)

If you’re looking to sweep your closet of those boring black mules (just so last season!) and refill it with current trends, cab it here and you’ll still have some cash left for clothes. This season’s stock includes plenty of pony, flannel, faux python, and beading. There are dozens of boots to try on – and virtually everything’s well under $200.

* Leopard-print kitten-heel mules, $65.
* Brown leather cowboy boots with cow-print pony uppers, $169.
* Leather square-toed ankle boots with two-inch heels, $115.

Salvatore Ferragamo
663 Fifth Avenue, near 53rd Street (212-838-9470)

After watching today’s customers haul away box upon box of ultraconservative loafers and walking shoes, you can easily forget that in the forties, Mr. Ferragamo almost single-handedly created the market for wacky, over-the-top shoes. Poke around the store, and you’ll find stuff you wish your mom had saved. Like shiny calfskin riding boots with skinny buckles on the ankles, or amazing real-alligator pumps.

* Brown alligator pumps, $1,650.
* Knee-high ankle-buckle riding boots with thick two-inch heels, $560.
* Black plain-front calfskin loafers with low heels, $265.

Charles Jourdan
777 Madison Avenue, near 66th Street (212-585-2238)

While Madison Avenue hostesses swear by the pumps and heel-soothing evening shoes on offer here, there are also plenty of pickings for the fashionista who’ll work the stilettos at night but walks to the office in the morning. The younger CJ Bis line does the trick: It gives a trendy edge to good old-fashioned shoe craftsmanship – lots of pink suede, lime-green leather, and hippie brown shearling – all in styles that don’t sacrifice comfort.

* Brown shearling clogs with rubber soles, $145.
* Lime-green suede sport shoes with jelly heels, $135.
* Red calfskin ankle boots, $165.

Joan & David
816 Madison Avenue, near 68th Street (212-772-3970)

Rounding out its collection of stylish, preppy classics (pumps, mules, loafers), Joan & David has taken a youthful, lively diversion for fall. Party in the Bahamas in brown feathered sandals, pad around the house in slippers with rosettes on the toes, or hit the streets in hefty modern clogs – however you wear these, you’ll be keeping up with the times without feeling like a fashion victim.

* Brown flat feathered sandals, $240.
* Rosette-toed gray slippers, $195.
* Black leather clogs, $150.

Stuart Weitzman
625 Madison Avenue, near 59th Street (212-750-2555)

Stuart Weitzman should be the first stop for anyone about to grow out of a Birkenstocks-and-sleep-till-noon lifestyle: The shop’s basic pumps, flats, mules, and sandals come in at least four or five colors each, and there’s definitely one to match any new suit. For glitzy events, perhaps New Year’s Eve, check out a group of rhinestone-bedecked stiletto sandals that would give the Waterford ball a run for its money. For a smidgen of hippie weekend chic, pick up a pair of lug-soled shearling boots.

* Brown shearling boots, $260.
* Black silk rhinestone-encrusted slingback sandals, $205.
* Black suede stiletto high boots, $360.
* Black pony slides with rounded three-inch heels, $165.

Bottega Veneta
635 Madison Avenue, near 59th Street (212-371-5515)

There’s little chance of mistaking the Bottega Veneta shoe gal for the classic Bottega bag lady. More suited to the Chelsea gallery owner than the uptown doyenne, the shoes here are serious, high-minded fashion. Daytime styles have consistently high vamps, almost comically pointed toes, and low, manageable heels. For evening, there’s little of the frivolous decorating you’ll see almost everywhere else; instead, you’ll find a smattering of streamlined pointy slides and the occasional high heel – maybe adorned with a big, floppy rosette.

* Stretch-leather knee-high boots, $500.
* Leopard-print slides, $330.
* Pink satin pumps with rosettes, $440.

Kenneth Cole
95 Fifth Avenue, at 17th Street (212-675-2550)

He’s built an empire on the solid urban walking shoe, but designer Kenneth Cole isn’t above flirting with the season’s funkier trends. If you’re considering testing trendier waters but wouldn’t feel right hopping around town with a lot of silliness on your feet, you’ll quickly feel comfortable in Cole’s take on recent fabric developments. Pony skin is here, for instance, but it comes only in black, on shoes with solid, urban heels and clean and classic shapes – no, you won’t be homesick for the sensible stuff you’re accustomed to.

* Black calfskin knee boots with one-inch heels and asymmetric toes, $198.
* Burgundy satin pumps with ankle straps and embroidered roses, $130.

A. Testoni
665 Fifth Avenue, near 53rd Street (212-223-0909)

A. Testoni has long provided the older, moneyed set with luxurious, if less than flamboyant, footwear. This season, the company has spiced up its traditional offerings with a few modern twists – such as a lug sole on classic flat leather boots, or a touch of cheetah-print pony on Belgian-style slippers, or ballet flats in eye-catching red leather.

* Cheetah-print slippers, $295.
* Red leather ballet flats, $235.
* Black leather square-toed ankle boots with chunky two-inch heels, $370.

Jimmy Choo
645 Fifth Avenue, at 51st Street (212-593-0800)

British designer Jimmy Choo is your psychic friend in the upmarket shoe world – he never fails to divine what you’ll want in any particular season and gives it to you in endless variety. This season, he’s seeing a lot of boots in our future – with anything from no heel at all to needles so spindly they’ll practically hail a cab for you. For evenings, pick up a trendy beaded slide.

* Olive-green beaded-satin evening slides, $515.
* Gray flannel slides with crystal beading, $490.
* Kitten-heeled camouflage-print pony boots, $820.

Sergio Rossi
835 Madison Avenue, near 69th Street (212-396-4814)

There isn’t a blah heel in this shop (or a black leather pump, for that matter). Instead, each shoe is the kind that makes an outfit, usually packing a dizzying combination of trends into a single ten-ounce moment – think beaded-pony-skin kitten-heel mules, python stiletto slingbacks, or color-blocked pony riding boots. High-heel wearers who actually do a little walking on occasion swear by Rossi’s skinny rectangular resin heels – they’re towering without feeling tippy. Flats fiends love the selection of embellished, ultrafeminine slippers for dressing up.

* Camel pony-skin slides with pink embroidery, $495.
* Black-and-white pony high-heeled mules, $330.
* Green lizard slingback stilettos, $470.

Gimme Sole