Photographs: Wally Gobetz (Red Hook); Ryan Monaghan (The Spotted Pig); Dave Cook (Mo Gridder’s); Stewart Isbell (Fette Sau); Greg Kellerman (Rockaway Taco); Ben Stechschulte (Arepa Lady); Melissa Hom/New York Magazine (New Leaf Cafe, El Quinto Pino, Resto, Corton, Torrisi, and Katz’s); Hannah Whitaker/New York Magazine (Cafe Kashkar, Vinegar Hill House, Charles Pan- Fried Chicken, Patsy’s, Da Ciro, Momofuku, Roberta’s, Mile End, The Smoke Joint, Dram Shop, Franny’s, Yun Nan Flavour Snack Shop, The Loading Dock, Tortilleria Nixtamal, and Zero Otto Nove); Jed Egan/New York Magazine (El Malecon); Ashley Consiglio/New York Magazine (5 & Diamond, Barney Greengrass, Atelier De Joel Robuchon, Minetta Tavern, Sho Shaun Hergatt, Bake & Things, Acme Smoked Fish, Feeding Tree, and Real Azteca); Jackie Ladner/New York Magazine (Balthazar); Lea Golis (Iris Cafe, Agnanti’s, Spicy & Tasty, Manducatis Rustica, Alpha, and Sripraphai); Andrew Ingalls/Courtesy Of Vinegar Hill House; Chris Villano/Courtesy Of Scarpetta; Aldo Di Berardino/Courtesy Of Saraghina; Christine Williams/Courtesy Of Brennan & Carr; Lauren Marsh/Courtesy Of Lloyd’s Carrot Cake; Tom Lana/Courtesy Of Coals; Alma Benussi/Courtesy Of Enoteca Maria; Courtesy Of Xi’an Famous Foods, Tanoreen, Frankies, Farm On Adderley, Johnny’s Famous Reef, Salvatore Of Soho, New Asha, And Marea.
Brunch, New Leaf Restaurant & Bar
1 Margaret Corbin Dr., nr. 190th St.
A bucolic setting for creamy scrambled eggs and airy apple pancakes. washington heights Rotisserie Chicken, El Malecón 4141 Broadway, at 175th St.
The dictionary definition of spit-roasted chicken, crispy skinned and juicy fleshed. harlem Burger, 5 & Diamond 2072 Frederick Douglass Blvd., nr. 112th St.
A veritable Frankenpatty of flap steak, beef cheek, and fatback. central harlem $15.16 Buffet, Charles’ Country Pan Fried Chicken 2839”2841 Frederick Douglass Blvd., nr. 151st St.
Soul food, in all its smothered, saucy, crisp-crusted glory.
L’oeuf de Poule, L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon
57 E. 57th St., nr. Park Ave.
Robuchon is a master with eggs, and this $89 appetizer is his finest creation. CHELSEA Uni Panini, El Quinto Pino 401 W. 24th St., nr. Ninth Ave.
Sea-urchin roe on ficelle with a Korean-mustard-oil-flavored butter given a turn in the panini press. MURRAY HILL Focaccia Robiola, Da Ciro 229 Lexington Ave., nr. 34th St.
Double-crusted, truffle-scented bliss. ROSE HILL Tête de Cochon Sandwich, Resto 111 E. 29th St., nr. Park Ave. S.
Curry-braised pig’s-head meat, pickled vegetables, and homemade mayo on toast. A bánh mì gone mad.
Cuban Sandwich, The Spotted Pig
314 W. 11th St., at Greenwich St.
A requisite fifteen-minute wait, a porky gourmet payoff. MEATPACKING DISTRICT Spaghetti Tomato and Basil, Scarpetta 355 W. 14th St., nr. Ninth Ave.
Destination-worthy spaghetti. Simple but transcendent. GREENWICH VILLAGE Bone-in New York Strip and Pommes Anna, Minetta Tavern 113 Macdougal St., nr. Bleecker St.
The perfect meat-and-potatoes match. EAST VILLAGE Fried-Chicken Dinner, Momofuku Noodle Bar 171 First Ave., nr. 11th St.
Chang combines the messy pleasures of a southern fry-up with the grandeur of Peking Duck.
Boudin Noir, Balthazar
80 Spring St., at Crosby St.
Enjoy this perfect version of the peasant classic with several flagons of Côtes du Rhône. NOLITA Italian-American Prix Fixe Dinner, Torrisi Italian Specialties 250 Mulberry St., nr. Prince St.
Red-sauce reformation in four exquisite courses. LOWER EAST SIDE Pastrami Sandwich, Katz’s Delicatessen 205 E. Houston St., at Ludlow St.
The seminal sandwich, in the seminal New York restaurant. TRIBECA Caramelized Brioche, Corton 239 W. Broadway, nr. White St.
Comfort food with the artistry of old-fashioned haute cuisine.
Savory Cumin Lamb Hand-Pulled Noodles, Xi’an Famous Foods
88 E. Broadway, nr. Forsyth St. These tender but chewy noodles set the local standard.
Lamb Belly With Fermented Garlic, SHO Shaun Hergatt
40 Broad St., at Exchange Pl.
The most elegant meat dish in a carnivorous neighborhood. ASTORIA Ntakos, Agnanti 19-06 Ditmars Blvd., nr. 19th St.
Bone-dry Cretan rusks moistened with a salty slick of olive oil, olives, feta, tomato, and capers. ROCKAWAY BEACH Tacos, Rockaway Taco 95-19 Rockaway Beach Blvd., nr. Beach 96th St.
Topped with cabbage, cilantro, radish, and lime. Perfect surfer snacks.
Tamales, Tortilleria Nixtamal
104-05 47th Ave., nr. 104th St.
The sausage-and-pepper Italiano Special pays tribute to the neighborhood’s past. FLUSHING Dan Dan Noodles, Spicy & Tasty 39-07 Prince St., nr. 39th Ave.
The compulsory, capsaicin-packed prelude to any serious Sichuan meal, in the place that does them best. JACKSON HEIGHTS Arepas, The Arepa Lady Street Cart Roosevelt Ave. nr. 78th St.
Vendor Maria Piedad Cano griddles Colombian arepas de queso to crispy, oozing perfection. LONG ISLAND CITY Gelato, Manducatis Rustica 46-33 Vernon Blvd., nr. 46th Rd.
Fluffy yet dense housemade flavors; pistachio and hazelnut are standouts.
Doughnuts, Alpha Donuts
45-16 Queens Blvd., nr. 45th St. This well-worn coffee shop’s star attractions are impeccably fresh, and if you’re lucky, still warm.
Crispy-Chinese-Watercress Salad, Sripraphai
64-13 39th Ave., nr. 64th St.
A textural triumph of chicken, shrimp, squid, and deep-fried greens. BELMONT Pizza, Zero Otto Nove 2357 Arthur Ave., nr. 186th St.
The “La Riccardo” (butternut squash, smoked mozz, pancetta, and chile flakes) is a must. CITY ISLAND Shrimp and Lobster, Johnny’s Famous Reef Restaurant 2 City Island Ave., nr. Belden St.
Deep-fried seaside goodness that tastes just right in this land’s-end setting.
Carrot Cake, Lloyd’s Carrot Cake
6087 Broadway, nr. 251st St.
An exceedingly moist and subtly spiced carotene-enriched confection. CONCOURSE VILLAGE Curried Goat, Feeding Tree 892 Gerard Ave., nr. E. 161st St.
A pregame pit stop for Yankees fans who flock for good jerk and better curried goat. MORRIS PARK Grilled Pizza, Coals 1888 Eastchester Rd., nr. Morris Park Ave.
The three-cheese Pure Bliss is a paragon of the delicately crunchy grilled-pie form. HUNTS POINT Ribs, Mo Gridder’s BBQ 565 Hunts Point Ave., at Randall Ave.
Fred Donnelly produces the smokiest, most tender ribs in Hunts Point and beyond.
Quesadillas and Tacos, Real Azteca
1013 E. 163rd St., nr. Simpson St.
The pork tacos and huitlacoche quesadillas taste like Mexico itself. ST. GEORGE Grandma Cuisine, Enoteca Maria 27 Hyatt St., nr. Central Ave.
A rotating roster of Italian grandmas cook specialties from Abruzzo, Sicily, and elsewhere. DONGAN HILLS Pizza, Salvatore of Soho 1880 Hylan Blvd., nr. Slater Blvd.
The best pie in the borough served, as the menu warns (or brags?), “charred and well-done.” TOMPKINSVILLE Appam, New Asha 322 Victory Blvd., nr. Cebra Ave.
Bowl-shaped rice-flour pancakes are just one of the novelties found at this friendly Sri Lankan spot.
Italian Ices, Ralph’s Famous Italian Ices
501 Port Richmond Ave., at Catherine St.
Summer in a cup, since 1928. BAY RIDGE Meze Plate, Tanoreen 7523 Third Ave., nr. 76th St.
The smokiest baba, the creamiest hummus, and spices that cast a spell. BED-STUY Neapolitan Pizza, Saraghina 435 Halsey St., at Lewis Ave.
You can taste the pizzaiolo’s passion (and the wood-fired oven doesn’t hurt). brighton beach Lagman, Cafe Kashkar 1141 Brighton Beach Ave., nr. Brighton 15th St.
Herby, lamby Uyghur soup, packed with springy hand-pulled noodles.
Sticky Bun, Iris Cafe
20 Columbia Pl., nr. Joralemon St.
Tender, buttery, house-baked perfection, especially with French-pressed Stumptown. bushwick Fried Chicken, Roberta’s 261 Moore St., nr. Bogart St.
A convincing evocation of the South, extra-crispy skin, honey-buttered biscuit and all. carroll gardens Meatballs, Frankies 457 Spuntino 457 Court St., nr. Luquer St.
Even the Italian grannies in the neighborhood marvel over these tender orbs. boerum hill Smoked-Meat Sandwich, Mile End 97A Hoyt St., nr. Atlantic Ave.
Impudent Quebeçois upstart or the best new smoky, succulent deli sandwich in town? You be the judge.
Doubles, Bake & Things
184 E. 35th St., nr. Church Ave.
This takeout joint’s version of the Trini street-food specialty can’t be beat. ditmas park French Fries, The Farm on Adderley 1108 Cortelyou Rd., nr. Stratford Rd.
It’s all in the details: skin-on, hand-cut Carolas, twice-fried to crispy perfection. vinegar hill Pork Chop, Vinegar Hill House 72 Hudson Ave., nr. Water St.
Wood fired, cut in thick slabs like prime rib, and served in grand midtown style. Fort Greene Black Angus Hot Dog, The Smoke Joint 87 S. Elliott Pl., nr. Lafayette Ave.
Excellent plain, even better topped with pulled pork, chicken, or hacked beef.
Smoked Fish, Acme Smoked Fish Corp.
30-56 Gem St., nr. N. 15th St.
The salmon of your Sunday-brunch dreams (Friday mornings only). park slope Double Cheeseburger, Dram Shop Bar 339 9th St., nr. Fifth Ave.
A deliciously drippy, Texas-style bar burger. One of the top ten in town. prospect heights Clam Pizza, Franny’s 295 Flatbush Ave., nr. Prospect Pl.
Screw New Haven. This is the best clam pie in the tristate region. red hook Latin American Street Food, Red Hook Ballfields Bay St. nr. Clinton St.
The Salvadoran pupusa, the Mexican huarache, and más.
Hot Beef Sandwich, Brennan & Carr
3432 Nostrand Ave., at Ave. U.
Roast-beef sandwiches dunked into vats of broth like doughnuts. sunset park Hot-and-Sour Soup, Yun Nan Flavour Snack Shop 775A 49th St., nr. Eighth Ave.
An invigorating broth and enough pork dumplings to feed a Yunnanese army. williamsburg Pastrami With Burnt-End Baked Beans”and a Pickle, Fette Sau 354 Metropolitan Ave., nr. Havemeyer St.
Meat to convert a vegetarian: succulent and smoky. downtown brooklyn Fish Tacos, The Loading Dock 170 Tillary St., nr. Gold St.
Crisply battered mahimahi tucked into fresh tortillas and drizzled with bright housemade salsas.