1905: New York”Neapolitan Hybrid
The classic New York pie, baked in a coal oven. Bigger, crisper, and sturdier than its Neapolitan ancestor, with a lower, denser crust edge. Photos by Hannah Whitaker
Pan pizza of two schools: the soft and spongy, and the comparatively thin and crunchy.
Uniformly thin and crisp with no crust edge to speak of. Typically baked in a wood-fired or electric oven.
1989: Focaccia Robiola
Split-crust, dimpled flatbread layered with creamy robiola cheese and a judicious swirl of truffle oil. Invented by Ciro Verdi, now of midtown’s Da Ciro.
1993: Grandma style (a.k.a. “Old-fashioned”)
Medium-thick pan pizza with Long Island roots, often heavier on the sauce than the cheese.
Imported from Rhode Island and popularized at Fresco by Scotto in midtown. Both sides of its superthin, crisp crust are cooked on a grill.
1994: Pizza Bianca
Roman-style flatbread seasoned with olive oil, sea salt, and rosemary, baked in six-foot lengths and sold by the slice. Popularized by Sullivan St. Bakery.
1998: Pizza Truck
A Staten Island innovation: square, relatively cheeseless, and thinner and crispier than Sicilian and Grandma style. And, yes, served from the back of a truck.
2004: New-School Neo-Neapolitan
Neapolitan in spirit, but much more freewheeling and unbound by any Verace Pizza Napoletana (a.k.a. the Pizza Police) rules. Noted for its haute-barnyard toppings.
2009: Neoclassical Neapolitan
Soft and chewy, with a tall, puffy crust edge and a delicate micro-layer of surface crispiness. Among many other strict specifications, it must be cooked in a wood-fired oven in under two minutes.