Burger Madness

Stand's mushroom burger.Photo: Jeremy Liebman for New York Magazine

Shake Shack may be closed for the season (and who knew there even was a hamburger season?), but no one on a burger-only diet is ever going to go hungry in this town. Consider that within the past three months, four notable new joints, including BLT Burger, a new branch of Goodburger, the East Village’s Royale, and Fort Greene’s 67Burger, have entered the burger-flipping frenzy. This week, two splashy newcomers take their place at the fast-food table, each with its own proprietary ground-beef blend, hand-cut fries, housemade condiments, and the requisite sops for all those vegetarian spoilsports.

24 E. 12th St., nr. University Pl.; 212-488-5900.

The Burgermeisters: Jonathan (Republic) Morr, in collaboration with chef Julie E. Farias, late of Ici, whose last high-profile (and highly unconventional) burger gig was at DB Bistro Moderne.
The Beef: Seven ounces, with a fat-to-lean ratio verging on 30-70, ground daily and grilled to temperature.
The Bun: Made by Long Island City bakery Pain d’Avignon, “not as hard as ciabatta, not as soft as brioche,” says Farias.
Outré Condiments:
Housemade ketchup, onion marmalade.
Owner recommendation: Beef burger with green-peppercorn sauce ($10).
Bonus Dairy points: Il Laboratorio del Gelato milkshakes, alcoholic and non.
Crazy Carbophobe option:
Burger Soup (like French onion with little burgers).
When The Liquor License Arrives:
Twenty or so beers, wines by the glass or pitcher—yes, pitcher—and fruity cocktails.

287 Seventh Ave., nr. 26th St.; 212-488-7500.

The Burgermeister: Chris Russell (Moomba, TanDa, and Sage), who’s renounced fine-dining for fast food.
The Beef: One-third pound natural Angus, sourced from boutique beefery Montana Legend, seasoned with house-blend spice mix and griddled or charbroiled to temperature.
The Bun: Nothing fancy, plain or whole-grain.
Outré Condiments:
Sweet-onion marmalade, radish sprouts.
Owner recommendation:
Beef burger with Roquefort, Nodine’s apple-smoked bacon, sweet-onion marmalade, lettuce, tomato, pickles ($9.50).
When the Liquor License Arrives:
Brooklyn Brewery beer; until then, hand-squeezed lemonade.
Bonus Dairy and Dessert Points: Ronnybrook Dairy shakes, baked-to-order chocolate-chip cookies from Moomba alum Wendy Israel.

Burger Madness