Photo: Danny Kim. Illustrations by John Burgoyne.

The bluefish is much maligned by detractors for tasting “fishy,” but taste is subjective. One man’s fishy is another’s full-flavored. When it’s properly cooked the day it’s purchased (or, better yet, caught), there is no fish in the sea that tastes richer, moister, or more delicious. Given its relative oiliness, the mighty blue is a prime candidate for grilling and broiling. But counterintuitively, oil-poaching works surprisingly well, too, as Frankies 570 Spuntino chef and bluefish aficionado Katie O’Donnell demonstrates in the following recipe.

Katie O’Donnell’s Olive-Oil-Poached-Bluefish Crostini

For the fish:
1 bluefish fillet, about 8 oz., skinned
Kosher salt
1 to 2 cups extra-virgin olive oil (or enough to completely cover bluefish, plus more for crostini)
4 cloves garlic
1 sprig rosemary

For the pickled ramps:
2 cups red-wine vinegar
1/4 cup water
1 tbs. sugar
1 tsp. kosher salt
8 ramps, washed and roots removed

For the crostini:
4 slices rustic Italian bread, sliced about 3/4-inch thick
Coarse sea salt to finish

Preheat oven to 350. (1) Cut the bluefish into 1-inch pieces, and place them in the bottom of a small ovenproof baking dish. (2) Season with salt, and cover completely with olive oil. Add 3 of the garlic cloves and the rosemary. Cover tightly with foil, and cook in the oven for 15 minutes. In a small pot, bring the vinegar, water, sugar, and salt to boil. Submerge ramps, and cook until the whites are tender, about 4 to 5 minutes. Remove ramps, and reserve pickling liquid for drizzling over crostini. Let ramps cool, and cut into 1-inch pieces. Brush bread with olive oil, and grill or toast it. While bread is still hot, rub 1 side of each slice with the remaining garlic clove. To assemble crostini: (3) Using a fork or slotted spoon, place an equal portion of the fish atop each slice of bread. Season with coarse sea salt; top each slice equally with the ramps, and a drizzle of the pickling liquid. Serves 4.