Photo: Danny Kim. Illustrations by John Burgoyne.

Forget ramps; the scallions have landed. The mellowest member of the pungent allium family is at its peak now through early summer, and what would our soups, salads, and sesame noodles be without them? Distinguish them at the market from their green-onion look-alikes by their barely-there bulbs, then try them in this definitive scallion-pancake recipe from Danji chef Hooni Kim. His secret? Club soda and a frosty batter.

Hooni Kim’s Pajeon

For the Batter:
1 cup AP flour
1/4 cup cornstarch
1 tsp. baking powder
1 cup club soda
1 tsp. garlic, grated
1 tbs. soy sauce
1 tsp. sugar
1 egg yolk
A pinch of salt and pepper

For the Pancakes:
1 bunch scallions
Vegetable oil

In a bowl, mix all the ingredients for the batter and let cool in the refrigerator or freezer until very cold. (The colder the batter, the crisper the pancake.) Trim the ends off the scallions, and (1) cut into 1-inch pieces. (2) If the white ends are thick, split them lengthwise before cutting them into pieces. Add the scallions to the cold batter. Heat a medium sauté pan over high heat, and add 3 tablespoons of vegetable oil until very hot. (3) Using a 2-ounce ladle, add the batter to the pan, cooking 1 pancake at a time, and reduce heat to medium. Cook until bottom is golden brown and crisp. Flip pancake, and sauté until cooked through. Remove to paper towel to absorb some of the grease. Repeat with remaining batter, adding more oil as needed. Cut pancakes into quarters and serve with a dipping sauce made from a mixture of 2 tablespoons soy sauce, 1 teaspoon each of rice vinegar and mirin, and 3 drops of sesame oil.