1. Brasserie Les Halles 411 Park Ave. S., nr. 29th St.; 212-679-4111; and 15 John St., nr. Broadway; 212-285-8585Four variations served nightly throughout February.2. Jarnac 328 W. 12th St., at Greenwich St.; 212-924-3413A classic rendition on Thursday nights throughout the winter.3. Brasserie Ruhlmann 45 Rockefeller Plaza, nr. Fifth Ave.; 212-974-2020Chef Georges Masraff makes his dinnertime choucroute with suckling pig.