Beyond Ballpark Franks

1. Spicy & Tasty

39-07 Prince St., Flushing; 718-359-1601

The name says it all at this great Sichuan restaurant. From springy ma-la noodles to twice-cooked pork, the complex layers of powerful flavors are a revelation.

2. Donovan’s

57-24 Roosevelt Ave., Woodside; 718-429-9339

A fine old Irish pub with a bar burger second only to Corner Bistro’s, and much-hailed fried onions.

3. La Pollada de Laura

102-03 Northern Blvd., Corona; 718-426-7818

Seviche is the house specialty at this Peruvian hole-in-the-wall. Nearly as good: the sweet marinated rotisserie chicken.

4. Sripraphai

64-13 39th Ave., Woodside; 718-899-9599

The defiantly delicious rebuttal to complaints that you can’t get good Thai food in New York.

Beyond Ballpark Franks