1. Klee Brasserie
200 Ninth Ave., nr. 23rd St.; 212-633-8033
Chef Daniel Angerer (late of the seafood shrine Fresh) explores his Austrian roots with dishes like pork loin with red cabbage and mustard relish.
520 Madison Ave., entrance on 53rd St.; 212-308-1099
Scott Conant has toned down his Alto Adige obsession, but you can still get a nice house-made tagliatelle with speck-potato sauce or herbed spaetzle with braised rabbit.
3. Blaue Gans
139 Duane St., nr. W. Broadway.; 212-571-8880
Simple (if hard-to-pronounce) Austro-German dishes like blutwurstgröstl and schupfnudeln, presented with a high degree of finesse by Kurt Gutenbrunner.
242 Tenth Ave., at 24th St.; 212-645-5659
Start with the pork-shoulder crepinettes, and proceed directly to the roast lamb saddle with bacon sauce.
30 Hudson St., nr. Duane St.; 212-791-3771
David Bouley’s velvet-swathed Klimtian dining room is still one of the prettiest in town. Good schnitzel too.