Men and Their Meatballs

1. Maremma

228 W. 10th St., nr. Bleecker St.; 212-645-0200

Inexplicably delicate lamb meatballs served as antipasti.

2. Frankies Spuntino 17 Clinton

17 Clinton St., nr. Stanton St.; 212-253-2303

The two Franks serve them two ways: in a righteous pool of red sauce or as a toothsome sandwich on Sullivan Street Bakery pizza bianca.

3. A Voce

41 Madison Ave., entrance on 26th St.; 212-545-8555

Some know Andrew Carmellini as a James Beard–awarded best chef; others know him for his duck meatballs.

4. Bocca Lupo

391 Henry St., at Warren St., Cobble Hill, Brooklyn; 718-243-2522

Veal-and-porcini meatballs in tomato sauce ladled over a soft slice of bread, like a neo-Italian-American take on that diner classic the hot open-faced sandwich.

5. ápizz

217 Eldridge St., nr. Stanton St.; 212-253-9199

Chef-owner John LaFemina wrote the book on the subject, literally—it’s titled A Man & His Meatballs.

Men and Their Meatballs