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Biancardi Meats, 2350 Arthur Ave., nr. 186th St., The Bronx (718-733-4058).

"Good American lamb has no lamb flavor, no lamb smell. It's very, very sweet. I like a whole rack of lamb ($11.99 a pound) pan-seared and finished off in the oven. I roast it and then slice it after—that's how it stays nice and pink. I'm not big on seasonings. Having grown up in an Italian household, I like Italian seasonings: a little salt, pepper, garlic, rosemary, fresh thyme. I'll put a little drop of canola oil in the pan so that it doesn't stick. Then I pan-sear and roast it for ten to fifteen minutes in a 500-degree oven, and it comes out rare but brown on the outside." —Sal Biancardi, co-owner