Carnivore’s Dilemma

Côte de porc at Le Saint Amour.Photo: Courtesy of Le Saint Amour Restaurant

While Los Angeles is still a major hub for Mexican food, the chatter on food blogs and the religiously stalked columns of Jonathan Gold (L.A. Weekly’s restaurant critic) is all about who grills the best pig parts in Koreatown and whether your favorite Hollywood Thai is hiding a secret menu. These addictions have engulfed L.A.’s kitchens, with new restaurants from ­Father’s Office founder Sang Yoon, former Mozza chef Bryant Ng, pastry visionary Jordan Kahn, and Kogi BBQ founder Roy Choi. Fittingly, L.A.’s menus are currently dominated by two designer ingredients of Japanese provenance: locally raised, natural Jidori chicken and Kurobuta pork (black marbled hogs descended from Britain’s Berkshire breed). Here’s where you’ll find a few of our ­favorite preparations in town.


• Jidori fried chicken at Aburiya Toranoko
243 S. San Pedro St.; 213-621-9500

• Chicken-and-apple salad at Cabbage Patch
214 S. Beverly Dr.; 310-550-8655

• Jidori yakitori at Robata Ya
2004 Sawtelle Blvd.; 310-481-1418

• Half–Jidori chicken at

• Jidori-chicken-liver pâté at Gjelina
1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd.; 310-450-1429


• Kurobuta-pork ribs at Sang Yoon’s Lukshon
3239 Helms Ave.; 310-202-6808

• Kurobuta-pork-belly bánh mì at Mendocino Farms
300 S. Grand Ave.; 213-620-1114

• “Chubby pork belly” rice bowl at Roy Choi’s Chego
3300 Overland Ave.

• Côte de porc at Le Saint Amour
9725 Culver Blvd.; 310-842-8155

Carnivore’s Dilemma