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Hawaii: Maui

Sunrise seaweed-picking, poke bowls, Hana farm stands.

Far From the Honeymooners
Nathan Howe and Alizé de Rosnay, chief curators at Puka Puka gallery ( in Paia, share their locally loved alternatives to Maui’s tourist haunts.

The usual: Instead of sunbathing with the crowds at Ka’anapali, the most famous beach on the west side …
The alternative: “Head to Baldwin Beach, just west of Paia. It’s a massive expanse of sand dunes with the volcano Haleakala as a backdrop. An open ocean stretches along sugarcane fields through to Spreckelsville. Go ogo (seaweed) picking at sunrise or join the sunset drum circles of the New Age mystics who hang out here.”

The usual: Instead of surfing at Peahi, better known as Jaws, home of Maui’s biggest surf break …
The alternative: “Watch Maui’s heaviest watermen carve radical maneuvers at Ho’okipa on the north shore along Hana Highway, the only surf break where surfers, windsurfers, and kite surfers coexist in a big-wave extravaganza.”

The usual: Instead of spending a small fortune at Mama’s Fish House, the celebrated seafood spot …
The alternative: “Dine at Market Fresh Bistro (3620 Baldwin Ave., Ste. 102A; 808-572-4877) in Makawao, which offers a farm-to-table experience daily. Thursday nights they offer a $75 seven-course meal. Reserve a week in advance.”

The usual: Instead of doing the Road to Hana, a winding drive along the island’s rugged northeastern coast …
The alternative: “Stay in Hana; tourists typically see it through their cars. Camp on black volcanic sea cliffs at Wai’anapanapa State Park, or near the Ohe’o Seven Sacred Pools in Haleakala. Most of the farm stands work on the honor system.”

From One Food Truck to Another
Maui’s mobile chefs give shout-outs to their talented peers.

Jonathan Silva of Maui Made Lemonade (, which offers local kombucha on tap: “Like Poke (; 808-757-2239) serves the freshest ahi and other local fish; their fresh-poke bowls are famous among locals.”

Danny Kalahiki, Like Poke
“At Slightly Salty (@slightly_salty; 310-913-1845), the shrimp pasta is one of my favorites. For $11, it’s a bang for your buck.”

Gary Terrell, Slightly Salty
Maui Fresh Streatery (; 808-344-7929) is only available three days a week for three hours at a time. Kyle changes up his Caribbean-and-Korean-inspired menu items at least every other week."

Kyle Kawakami, Maui Fresh Streatery
Donut Dynamite (; 808-280-6442) is run by ‘Madame Donut’ and her husband. I love their chocolate-and-coconut Samoa Kine doughnut, a take on the Girl Scout cookie.”

Madame Donut, Donut Dynamite
Milagros Food Company (; 808-579-8755) helped elevate the food-truck scene with their fresh ingredients and housemade accoutrements. Try the crab-cake sammy or shrimp tacos.”

Green Juice and Avocado Masks
Skeeter Tichnor, instructor at Lumeria Maui, a yoga retreat in the Upcountry, on where the locals get their health fix.

Cold-pressed juice
Glow Juice Maui grow their own organic fruits and veggies and will deliver their juices right to your hotel room (call 720-404-2066 to place an order for next-morning delivery).”

Açai bowls
“The owners of Maui Kombucha (810 Kokomo Rd., Ste. 136; 808-575-5233) make creative vegan food, like their Immortality açai bowls, in a small spot with a super-positive vibe.”

Beach yoga
“Go to Launiupoko near Lahaina: in the shade of the trees, gazing out to surf … paradise. Lululemon Athletica Maui holds classes here.”

Clay masks
“Grab two cups of the red-clay mud you’ll find by any waterfall, mix it with an avocado, ocean water, and one-eighth of a cup of sand. Rinse it off by the falls.”

Where the Locals Would Stay

“If you want to get away from the tourist frenzy, find a bed-and-breakfast in the country. Bamboo Heaven Maui (left; from $97; is an ecofriendly home in Haiku made of bamboo. If you stay here, you’ll meet the sweetest host on the planet, my mom (she runs the place).” —Destin Daniel Cretton, director, writer, Short Term 12

The Sheraton Maui Resort and Spa (from $279; is the last property along Ka’anapali Beach. Right in front of the hotel, Black Rock is one of the best snorkeling spots on the island.” —Lulu Agan, owner of SwellWomen, a seven-day surf-and-yoga retreat

“At the new Andaz Maui (from $499;, surrounded by amazing white-sand beaches, there are three infinity pools that look out over the ocean. Chef Isaac Bancaco’s Ka’ana Kitchen uses seasonal ingredients from local farms.” —Tim Parsons, creator of AdoboLoco hot sauce