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The Urbanist’s Mumbai: Where to Eat

Secret Vindaloo Ribs and No-So-Secret Fish Curry
Mansi Poddar and Kanika Parab, co-founders of lifestyle blog Brown Paper Bag, reveal their favorite spots.

Goa Bhavan Canteen  

Cuisine: Bohri Muslim
Middle Eastern/ Arabic influences; both meaty and veg-friendly

The Bohri Kitchen (email
“In a historical Colaba apartment, the very charming Kapadia family serves authentic Bohri meals to no more than 14 diners at a time. Expect bread-crumb-coated chicken drumsticks, pots of autumnal mutton biryani, and paaya soup made with goat trotters.”

Surti 12 Handi (Gujar St., No. 12, Bohri Mohalla) and Neel (Gate Nos. 5 and 6, Mahalaxmi Racecourse; 22-6157-7777;
“You’ll find bara handi, a Bohri special made with gravies, lentils, and meats, at Surti 12 Handi. For a more luxe experience, eat at Neel, a pristine Indian restaurant at the Mumbai racecourse.”

Cuisine: Kerala
Matta rice and South Indian spicy curries

Poppaddum (email
“Sneha Nair quit her job in finance to work on this kitchen serving three types of Kerala meals—Hindu, Malabar Muslim, and Syrian Christian—out of her home in Bandra. Experiences range from a sadhya, a vegetarian meal plated on a banana leaf, to meen pollichathu, backwater fish roasted in spices.”

Sneha Restaurant (No. 53, Shiva Sagar Housing Society, Lady Jamshedji Rd., Mahim; 22-2445-6330) and Konkan Cafe (Vivanta by Taj, 90 Cuffe Parade; 22-6665-0808).
“Locals loved the beef chili at Sneha, so traffic fell after the beef ban. But it’s still worth a visit for the fish curry. Or try a nadan kozhi roast at Konkan Cafe at the Vivanta by Taj hotel instead.”

Cuisine: Goa
Seafood heavy, with hints of Portuguese

The Gypsy Kitchen (visit the GypsyKitchen Facebook page for a way in).
“In an attempt to preserve heirloom recipes, chef Gresham Fernandes collaborates every month or two with a different home cook—preferably a grandmum. They often serve jazzed-up Goan delicacies like smoked chorizo with cider and baby back ribs with vindaloo.”

Goa Bhavan Canteen (Gulmohar Cross Rd. 12, Juhu) and Soul Fry (Silver Croft, G/F, Pali Mala Rd., Bandra W.; 22-2604-6892).
“Located in a Juhu guesthouse of the same name, Goa Bhavan is best known for fish platters. Soul Fry in Bandra may not serve super-authentic food, but it evokes the merry Goan mood, with owner Meldan D’Cunha serving a storm of local rum.”