London, England A new, unforgettable dining experience from the city's star chef From the April 22, 2002 Issue of New York London's top chef is a tough competitor. Before turning to cooking, Gordon Ramsay learned how to throw elbows as a soccer star. Then he sprinted his way past more established opponents to become London's only Michelin three-star chef. Now, with the recent opening of his second namesake restaurant, in Claridge's, Ramsay is trying to join the tiny fraternity of culinary legends with a total of six Michelin stars. And it may work. Despite the presence of some wonderfully unpretentious signature dishes like braised belly of pork, Gordon Ramsay at Claridge's offers a meticulously plotted and unforgettably refined dining experience. After coffee and cigars, try a change of pace, and a slightly more country feel, by bedding down at the recently renovated Connaught hotel, just minutes away. But beware: Gordon Ramsay will soon be taking over that kitchen, too. -- GILLIAN DUFFY Details Gordon Ramsay at Claridge's (44-20-7499-0099); the Connaught (rooms start at $545; 44-20-7499-7070).       Photograph: Clive Frost