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Best of New York Food 2004

Best Avant-Garde Sushi

  • Sushi of Gari

    402 East 78th Street, 212-517-5340

    Among the most severe sushi snobs, technique and repetition tend to be valued over ingenuity and general outright wackiness. Which is possibly why Masatoshi "Gari” Sugio had to move halfway around the globe to indulge his taste for sometimes wacky, always delicious combinations like seared foie gras and daikon radish, or spicy tuna rolls made with mayonnaise, Tabasco, and a dot of sesame oil. For five years now, he’s been serving up the most original sushi experiments in town at Sushi of Gari, located on a leafy stretch of East 78th Street. To experience the full range of the chef’s imagination, order the omakase. You’ll receive pieces of red snapper studded with tangy vinegar jelly, hot barbecued slices of unagi decked with chopped avocado, and, if you’re lucky, fried tempura ice cream for dessert..

From the 2004 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine

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Other Best Of Guides

So what exactly does “best” mean in a city with thousands of pizza joints, hundreds of celebrity masseuses, and museum-worthy concept shops on every corner? Well, in the case of this, our annual “Best of New York” roundup, there’s a heavy emphasis on what’s new or what has somehow remained virtually unheard of (until now, of course).