For Naturalists on a Shoestring
SOUTHERN BELIZE
An ecofriendly stay in the wilderness
When to go: January through May; November and December
Hours from NYC: Six
Cost: $4,000 for one week
What to Expect
Nicknamed “the forgotten land” by locals, southern Belize is a sparsely populated region amid mountains and rain forest, bordered by the longest barrier reef in the Western Hemisphere. The closest you’ll come to civilization is the small town of Punta Gorda, where the most exciting nightlife involves a karaoke machine and a handful of off-key locals.
Where to Stay
Wake up to the sound of howler monkeys and toucans at Cotton Tree Lodge (from $109; cottontreelodge.com), an off-the-grid retreat made up of ten thatched cabanas along the Moho River. Reserve the Honeymoon cabana (from $149) with its riverfront veranda, hammocks, and indoor Jacuzzi. Or stay in the Jungle cabana (from $149), so deeply enmeshed among the fig trees that you’ll need a flashlight when the sun goes down.
Where to Eat
The resort itself is dependable for regional dishes, like snook baked in banana leaves, prepared with ingredients from the lodge’s organic garden. But for a change of atmosphere, take a boat into Punta Gorda and go to Emery’s (501-701-2929), an open-air seafood joint a short stroll from the ocean. The shrimp burger is terrific; wash it down with a Beliken beer.
To Do, By Day
Guided outings (from $79) fall into four categories: villages, rainforest, river, and ruins. Hike to the Mayan village of Blue Creek, and follow a marked trail past a ten-foot waterfall to the sacred Hokeb Ha Cave. Swim beneath huge stalactites in its crystalline waters. Or, follow a bush doctor into the jungle to test the medicinal properties of plants and mushrooms (none hallucinogenic, sorry). Drink water from a vine, and try the edible leaves that (allegedly) prevent spouses from wandering. Another day, satisfy chocolate cravings at an organic cocoa farm, where you’ll learn how to roast, crush, winnow, and grind the beans by hand.
To Do, By Night
Take a quick boat ride down to Barranco Village for an outdoor concert. The colonial enclave is home to the Garifunas, descendants of African slaves and Carib-Indians who have preserved their own language, religion, and percussion-based music. Join a drumming circle on the bonfire-lit beach and dance to the bass boom of the barrel drums.
Side Trip
Go diving off of Franks Caye, (from $195 per person, reefci.com) an island on the southern tip of the Belize Barrier Reef. After a day of chasing sea turtles and whale sharks, spend the night in a rustic cabana.
Getting There
Continental (continental.com) flies nonstop from Newark to Belize City. To reach Punta Gorda, connect to Tropic Air (from $88; tropicair.com). Most resorts can arrange transportation once you reach the town.
For Beach Layabouts
HVAR, CROATIA
Island- and bar-hopping along the Adriatic
When to go: May through September
Hours from NYC: Eleven
Cost: $6,000 for ten days
What to Expect
Until recently, Hvar was one of the Dalmatian Coast’s best-kept secrets. Its hidden beach coves, lavender fields, and sleepy fishing villages were untrampled by tourists during Croatia’s turbulent years. Today, new boutique hotels and a non-euro economy attract European sybarites, who are transforming it into a glamorous party place.
Where to Stay
Most of the island’s accomodations, left over from the drab Communist era, are being refurbished as designer hotels, with cool lounges and brasseries. Stay at the Riva Hvar Yacht Harbour Hotel (from $365; suncanihvar.com/riva), housed in a century-old stone building. Ask for a junior suite (from $570) with a balcony overlooking the busy harbor. You won’t have to wander too far to enjoy cocktails on the water—the hotel’s BB Club happens to be one of Hvar’s best bars.
Where to Eat
The Old Town’s elegant 13th-century Venetian piazza is lined with restaurants where the grub is secondary to the people watching. If snagging an outdoor table proves impossible, the narrow streets off the square have more interesting culinary options: Ivan Buzolic, the chef-owner of Zlatna Skoljka (zlatna.skoljka.com), rarely repeats a menu at his Slow Food restaurant, where dinner can take several (pleasurable) hours. Order a glass of Medvid, a sweet red wine from one of the island’s vineyards, and be patient. The fresh seafood, prepared with simple, local ingredients (figs, olives, truffles), is worth the wait.
To Do, By Day
Relax in a private stone cabana at the sleek Bonj les Bains (suncanihvar.com/bonj-les-bains), a thirties marble bathing deck with daybeds, umbrellas, and massage tents for two. Or, to lie on sand, skip Hvar’s rocky beaches and take a water taxi to the Pakleni islands, a pine-covered archipelago lined with secluded coves and unspoiled beaches. Palmizana’s bays are the most popular with sunbathers, while Jerolim’s beaches cater to nudists. In the afternoon, ride out to the inlet-island of Stipanska, and head to Carpe Diem Beach Club (carpe-diem-beach.com), a daytime offshoot of the mainland’s best-known disco. Should you start feeling guilty about your lack of cultural immersion, attend a classical recital in the courtyard of the Renaissance Franciscan monastery in Hvar Town. Another day, visit Vrboska, a neighboring village set on a curving fjord, often referred to as “Little Venice” because of its small bridges and postcard views.
To Do, By Night
Megaclub Carpe Diem ( carpe-diem-hvar.com), with its arched patio, low-slung sofas, and international roster of techno D.J.’s, is the closest you’ll come to Ibiza-style partying on this side of the Mediterranean. Before sunrise, follow revelers to Veneranda (veneranda.hr), a former military fortress built in 1561 that’s now an all-night disco. If you prefer a more low-key atmostphere, go to the more intimate Zimmer Frei (385-98-270-500) a candlelit room where you can relax on floor cushions with an Ozujsko beer. Before turning in, grab a nightcap at The Top (suncaninvar.com/adriana), a split-level rooftop garden terrace that overlooks the harbor.
Side Trip
The romantic island of Korcula is famous for Moreska, a sword-dancing festival that happens each summer in the medieval town. Unpack at the simple but comfortable Hotel Korcula (from $192; 385-20-711-078) before setting out into the maze of dark narrow streets flanked by stonewalls and red-roof houses. Rent a scooter (two for $45; korcula-rent.net) to explore the outer reaches of the island and its stunning bays. Come sunset, pick up a bottle of locally-produced Posip, a dry, golden wine, and hide out in Pupnatska Luka, a secluded cove fringed by forests.
Getting There
With no direct flights from New York to Croatia, you’ll have to fly to a European hub serviced by Croatia Airlines (croatiaairlines.com) and connect to the city of Split. Jarolinija (jadrolinija.hr) offers one-hour ferry service from Split to Hvar, and a 90-minute ferry ride from Hvar to Korcula.
For Outdoor Enthusiasts
ATACAMA DESERT, CHILE
A rugged adventure, from sand to snow
When to go: June through October
Hours from NYC: Fourteen
Cost: $10,000 for two weeks
What to Expect
With its salt-rimmed lakes, thermal springs, volcanoes, sand dunes, and energetic geysers, the Atacama (the highest desert on earth) feels like a natural amusement park in the clouds.
Where to Stay
Built from stone, adobe, and rammed earth, Tierra Atacama (from $1,995 per person for seven nights, meals and activities included; tierraatacama.com) has 32 minimalist rooms with private terraces. Book one that faces east for its canopied beds, outdoor glass showers, and views of the 19,000-foot Licancabur Volcano. The staff can arrange guided excursions of nearby geological sites that range from effortless to extreme. After a strenuous day, a volcanic stone massage at the spa will set you right.
Where to Eat
Go to dinner in San Pedro de Atacama. Arrive early to get a table below the thatched roof of Café Adobe (cafeadobe.cl), a semi-enclosed eatery with a crackling bonfire and a menu of rustic Chilean specialties like lomo a lo pobre (grilled beef, fries, sautéed onions, and fried eggs). Later, knock back a few frothy pisco sours while jugglers and fire twirlers entertain the crowd.
To Do, By Day
Spend the first day getting used to the high altitude (7,920 feet) before exerting yourself. Once acclimatized, bike to the Laguna Cejar, an emerald lagoon surrounded by a thick salt crust. Swim—or float, rather—atop the clear water. Then sign up for an easy hike through the Valle de la Luna’s jagged hills and massive dunes. Get to the mirador (lookout point) by sunset to watch the sky turn a dizzying array of colors. Or, before nightfall, sandboard down the 500-foot dunes of the Valle de la Muerte (translation: Death Valley). An outfitter (andestraveler.com) provides boards with bindings, wax, and instruction. (Bring Advil.) On a day when you’re not sleeping in, get to the Tatio Geysers by sunrise to see the fumaroles release bursts of water and steam. On the way back, stop for a relaxing bath in the mineral-rich Puritama Springs.
To Do, By Night
Atacama is famous for its clear sky. Book a stargazing tour with Celestial Explorations (spaceobs.com), and have the Southern Hemisphere’s constellations explained to you by owner and astronomer Alain Maury.
Side Trip
Think the trails at Whistler are fierce? Try Ski Portillo, a resort set in the snow-capped Andes that’s become a preferred summer training destination for various Olympic ski teams. Drop your bags off at Hotel Portillo (from $1,450 per person for seven nights, all-inclusive; skiportillo.com), the only lodge around, and ski out to one of the mountain’s fifteen runs. For après-ski, head to the resort’s bar and kick up your boots by the big stone fireplace or take a dip in the heated outdoor pool.
Getting There
LAN Airlines (lan.com) travels direct from JFK to Santiago. From there, fly to Calama (the closest airport to San Pedro de Atacama). Transfers to the hotel are included in all-inclusive packages. For Portillo, return to Santiago and arrange ground transportation through the resort.
For Culture Vultures
ISTANBUL, TURKEY
Exploring an open museum
When to go: May through November
Hours from NYC: Ten and a half
Cost: $12,000 for two weeks
What to Expect
Turkey’s cosmopolitan capital continues to seduce with its minaret-studded sky, maze-like bazaars, and steamy spas. No wonder it’s been conquered so many times. The city is as chic as it is ancient, its fashionable restaurants and cool clubs rivaling much of what you’ll find on the other side of the Mediterranean.
Where to Stay
The recently-opened Four Seasons Bosphorus (from $400; fourseasons.com/bosphorus) occupies a restored 19th-century Ottoman mansion on the shores of the Bosphorus Strait. Book one of four Palace Roof Suites (1402 and 1403 are the roomiest); each has a deep-soaking tub and a terrace with waterfront views. After a long flight, recover in the hotel’s sky-lit spa, which has three hammams, including one for couples. Get the requisite scrub-and-foam-massage treatment, then relax in the pool to meditative Sufi music piped through underwater speakers.
Where to Eat
Go to Asitane (asitanerestaurant.com) for Ottoman specialties culled from 500-year-old palace recipes. Sit in the courtyard and order what Mehmet II the Conqueror enjoyed during his reign in the 1400’s: roasted eggplant and duck stew with apricots. For a modern twist on rare, regional dishes, cab it to the more casual foodie-favorite Çiya (ciya.com.tr) on the Asian side of town. The Anatolian eatery has reinvented the kebab in at least a dozen ways: paired with loquats; stewed with cherries; served in pomegranate juice, and more.
To Do, By Day
Dress appropriately for mosque visits (no bare legs or shoulders) and take the hotel’s private boat to the historic center of Sultanahmet. The Ayasofya, Christianity’s largest church before it was converted to a mosque, is now a Byzantine art museum with magnificent frescoes and mosaics. Later, make sure to see the stunning Iznik tiles and stained-glass windows of the Blue Mosque next door. Another must-visit is Topkapi Palace, the sumptuous former home of Ottoman sultans and their wives. The royal treasury includes a collection of thrones, elaborate costumes, and jewel-encrusted weapons. Within walking distance are the 4,000-plus shops of the frenetic Grand Bazaar, the 15th-century market where you can—and should—haggle for jewelry, pottery, lamps, and carpets. For a quieter scene, go to the Bosphorus neighborhood of Ortaköy, where you’ll find coffeehouses and tea terraces. On Sundays, artists and antique dealers sell handmade jewelry, knitted scarves, and other pretty tchotchkes by the wharf.
To Do, By Night
Walk along Istiklal Caddesi, a promenade lined with cafes and bars in the Beyoglu district. Slip into Refik (90-212-243-2834), an authentic tavern where bohemian-types drink anise-flavored raki and listen to modern gypsy music. For a different beat, try Babylon (babylon-st.com), a concert hall where eclectic jazz players perform nightly. If you prefer a more romantic vibe, sip cocktails at Leb-i Derya (lebiderya.com) or 360 Istanbul (360istanbul.com), rooftop bars where conversations are possible—if the beautiful city views don’t leave you speechless. Latenight, try getting into one of the open-air mega-clubs in Ortaköy. Reina is most popular (reina.com.tr) despite (or because of) its tough door policy and overpriced drinks—so remember to dress the part.
Side Trip
Charter a hot air balloon to fly over the volcanic peaks and canyons of Cappadocia in Central Anatolia (goremeballoons.com). Back on land, visit Derinkuyu and Kaymakli, two ancient, underground cities thought to date all the way back to 1900 B.C. At night, stay at the Anatolian Houses (from $300; anatolianhouses.com.tr), a luxe retreat built within cave formations.
Getting There
Delta (delta.com) flies direct from JFK to Istanbul. From there, Cappadocia (via Kayaseri) is 90 minutes away via Turkish Airlines.
SEE ALSO
• For Beach Layabouts
• For Outdoor Enthusiasts
• For Culture Vultures
SEE ALSO
• For Outdoor Enthusiasts
• For Culture Vultures
• For Naturalists on a Budget
SEE ALSO
• For Culture Vultures
• For Naturalists on a Budget
• For Beach Layabouts
SEE ALSO
• For Naturalists on a Budget
• For Beach Layabouts
• For Outdoor Enthusiasts