My Hunt for the Perfect Blue Oxford-Cloth Button-down
Save this article to read it later.
Find this story in your account’s‘Saved for Later’section.
Comment
When most people picture an oxford shirt — or, as menswear aficionados call it, the OCBD, for oxford-cloth button-down — they thinkwhite. I prefer pale blue. It’s more relaxed while still playing nicely with a blazer and tie. It flatters most skin tones, and unlike white, it doesn’t start looking dingy after a few washes or a rogue coffee spill. Blue also fades in that perfectly sun-washed way.
I currently own about five blue oxfords, but some could use a little shortening in the arms, or the body is a bit baggy. There are a couple from Gitman Vintage and J. Press’s defunct Pennant Label that I wouldn’t change a thing about and, in fact, would like to find backups of in case the originals wear out. Plus, they’re so versatile that it’s always good to have a few in rotation. Those shirts epitomize what I’ve been hunting for: the classic thick oxford weave, a button-down collar that actually holds its shape (menswear legendAaron Levineswears by lightly dampening his collar with water to help it hold its shape and prevent that dreaded flyaway look), and a traditional front placket. I prefer a moderate sweep — referring to the circumference at the bottom hem — which is less curved than the classic shirttail and looks good tucked or untucked. I’m also looking for that locker loop, which guys actually use to hang shirts in gym lockers so they won’t wrinkle or lose shape.
Basically, I’m chasing the spirit of thosemade-in-USA Brooks Brothersicons you can only score on eBay or in vintage shops if the stars align. Here are the blue oxford picks I considered (and for reference, I’m usually a size small, with a 14.5-inch to 15-inch neck; sleeves vary widely among brands, but I’ve noted which measurements worked for me where applicable).
The ones that didn’t cut it
New! You can now save this product for later.
On paper, the Gap version seems to check all the boxes: two-button adjustable cuffs, a locker loop (which, oddly enough, the product photos don’t show), and a neatly outlined chest pocket. But the fabric feels thinner than you’d want from a workhorse oxford shirt. The collar roll, which is the natural curve formed by buttoning down the collar points, is also nonexistent; there should be space between the collar and collar band. Plus, it features 2 percent spandex. I firmly believe stretch belongs in gym clothes, not in shirts — or chinos or jeans. That said, Gap does offer the shirt in a generous range of sizes and fits, and it’s often marked down.
New! You can now save this product for later.
J.Crew’s broken-in oxford shirt is lightweight and lived-in — sans the hard labor of breaking in a heavier-feeling oxford. Out of the five fits the brand offers, I went with the classic, since the length works just as well tucked in as it does hanging loose post-brunch. This one skips the locker loop but has a single-barrel cuff, which keeps things simple. The body fits great, and the collar’s got structure, but the sleeves could use a trim — or at least an extra button to rein them in a bit. For under $100, it’s easily one of the best-quality shirts you can snag. And it’s the shirt that chefFlynn McGarry’swaitstaffat his Mott Street restaurant, Gem, uses for service. But it’s not one of my winners because I prefer to break a shirt in myself (stolen valor, etc.).
New! You can now save this product for later.
Vintage Brooks Brothers made-in-the-USA oxfords, which are cut fuller through the body and have a dry handfeel that softens over time, remain one of the blueprints for shirtmakers. But oldChaps oxfords, dating back to when they were made under the Ralph Lauren umbrella (more relaxed and casual than Brooks, and softer from the first wear) deserve a respectful nod, too. Buck Mason’s rendition toggles between the two with a trim but not too tight fit, tipping its cap to theIvy Leagueheyday, when oxfords were roomier and meant to be tucked in. That explains the shirt’s larger sweep and gives it a more relaxed and drapey silhouette.
I like how pronounced the collar is, and on me, the sleeves hit just right at the wrist. The shirt is thicker than J.Crew’s but doesn’t quite reach the density of the old Brooks Brothers or Chaps offerings and is lighter to the touch than other options on this list. While the fit nails that nostalgic campus vibe, I wanted a touch more heft.
New! You can now save this product for later.
I’ve had one of Alex Mill’s earlier oxford shirts since around 2019. Between the new oxford and the older one, I actually prefer the previous iteration. It’s a slightly darker shade of light blue, and it’s softened beautifully after years of wear and countless washes.
That older oxford feels more like a true basket weave, whereas the newer version leans closer to poplin, a much lighter-weight fabric. It breathes better than your standard oxford, which is great if you tend to overheat. The fabric reminds me of J.Crew’s broken-in oxford — same rumpled appearance with a similarly washed finish. The difference really comes down to fit. J.Crew’s classic fit is fine if you like a little extra room in your sleeves, but I prefer the closer fit of the Alex Mill sleeves.
New! You can now save this product for later.
Copenhagen-based label Norse Projects has a tab on its website labeled “Standard,” which features the brand’s perennials, like this oxford shirt. Made in Portugal (as many premium shirts are these days), it’s trim without being constrictive, the sleeves taper subtly, and the hem lands at just the right length. The fabric keeps a touch of stiffness even after washing, giving it that crisp, just-out-of-the-box feel. There’s no locker loop on the back, which reduces bulk and prevents tugging at the back collar if you’re wearing a sweater or blazer, and instead of the usual V-stitch chest pocket, there’s a minimalist straight line. I still prefer the more traditional design details, so this one didn’t make the cut.
New! You can now save this product for later.
The fit of this Todd Snyder in size small (14.5- to 15-inch neck, 41-inch chest, 33-inch sleeve) is decent, but it runs a touch long in the arms and at the bottom hem. The fabric, being selvedge, has that satisfyingly dense, sturdy feel; yet, the signature red line that’s usually apparent with selvedge is missing.
Then there’s the buttoned utility pocket — a thoughtful design move, but the purist in me prefers a V-stitched chest pocket. If youaregoing the other route, give us symmetry: two buttoned utility pockets or bust. I do appreciate the button at the back of the collar, though; it keeps things tidy when you’re wearing a tie.
The runners-up
New! You can now save this product for later.
New York menswear label Wythe launched its line a few years ago with this very oxford shirt. Inspired by American oxford-cloth button-downs from the 1960s, this version looks and feels like you’d fit right in with a room full of men wearing vintage Brooks Brothers. Wythe nails the traditional fit: boxy in the body and roomy in the shoulders, with a charmingly unstructured collar. This kind of collar — featuring a soft, natural curve along the front edge that starts at the collar band and flows down through the points — is what makes the old shirts from the 1960s so coveted.
It’s also arguably the best oxford to tuck in. The front and back hems hit mid-zipper on your pants, with the back just a touch longer than the front. Tucked in, it doesn’t balloon or billow; it just hovers above the belt. Plus, it stays neatly in place. The Wythe is not the overall winner, however, because the boxier cut is not quite as versatile as a trimmer one.
New! You can now save this product for later.
A few months ago, I picked up Knickerbocker’s oxford shirt in anavy stripe, and the weight of the fabric immediately grabbed my attention. Naturally, I had to follow it up with the classic light-blue one.
This version is cut from a custom-made 6.5-ounce Portuguese cotton that feels like a throwback. It’s noticeably heavier than the other shirts on this list. There’s also a beautiful defined collar roll, authentic mother-of-pearl buttons, and a locker loop cleverly relocated on the inside of the shirt. The locker loop sits flush with the inside back-yoke seam, so it doesn’t protrude against the skin, and having it on the inside means no more snagging on random hooks. I also appreciate the subtle tonal “KNY” monogram just under the left chest; it’s understated and tasteful. I’m happy to have this shirt in my rotation, but it falls just short of the best-overall title because the winner epitomizes the OCBD in a way none of the others do.
The winner
New! You can now save this product for later.
Gitman Vintageonlymakes oxfords, and its expertise shows. The brand has been using the same mid-weight, made-in-USA 5-ounce Cambridge oxford cloth since 1978, and its shirts are among the most durable. I’ve owned one of itsnavy overdyed oxford shirtsfor about ten years, and the fabric has held up through countless washes, thanks to its fray- and pill-resistant construction. All the classic details are there too: barrel cuffs, locker loop, rear box pleat, tough-as-nails chalk buttons, rear collar button, and a tacked V-stitch chest pocket. One thing to note if you’re browsing the brand’s site: there aretwoversions — the “updated fit” and the “old fit.”
“We took in the side sweep on the old fit — it looked more like a dress shirt when untucked — and made it straighter in the updated fit,” Gitman Vintage president Chris Olberding told me. It’s evident that the updated fit is a bit slimmer than the old fit, which I don’t mind, as it looks more streamlined, especially when I don’t tuck my shirt in. Olberding said the pattern is still based on the same block (overall body shape and cut of the shirt) that’s been used since the Vintage line launched in 2008.
For reference, I wear a size small: 14.5-inch neck, 18-inch shoulder, 41-inch chest, 30-inch length, 33-inch sleeve. The old fit runs pretty similarly; the shoulders have a bit more room at 18.25 inches, but the chest drops slightly to 40 inches. All told, this is pound for pound the best oxford shirt out there — the perfect mix of weight, fit, and craftsmanship.
More From The Strategist
- The Best Things Strategist Editors Have Bought This Year (So Far)
- The Strategist Summer 100
- I Replaced My Tretinoin With This $30 Retinal Cream
- My Hunt for Fisherman Sandals That Won’t Tear Up My Feet
The Strategistis designed to surface useful, expert recommendations for things to buy across the vast e-commerce landscape. Every product is independently selected by our team of editors, whom you can read abouthere. We update links when possible, but note that deals can expire and all prices are subject to change.
