Caraway Made an Entirely Plastic-Free Coffee Maker — and It’s Really Good
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A little over a year ago, my colleagues and I wrote aseries of storiesabout how to reduce plastic use in the kitchen. Specifically, senior writerMichael Zhaoinvestigated all the ways tobrew coffeethat don’t involve said material. Most of the options he laid out were plastic-free models for countertop brewing, including pour-over and French press, or plastic-free models for stovetop coffee-making, such as percolators and moka pots. He even managed to find a couple of acceptable espresso machines.
At the time, there was only a singleelectric coffee machinethat fit the bill to test — but it still came with a plastic water reservoir (which, to be fair, didn’t heat up), and it cost a hefty $700. “That’s because the prevalence of plastic in coffee equipment has as much to do with its performance as with its low cost,” Zhao explained.
But now things are changing. A while after he wrote that piece, Zhao found thisSimplyGoodCoffee the Brewer— a truly plastic-free model that looks like the ever-popularTechnivorm Moccamaster. And as of this week, Caraway has released its own version.
It’s perhaps no surprise; Caraway’s whole thing has always been plastic-free cookware. But I do find it impressive that a lineup that started withceramic nonstick skillets,glass storage containers, andwooden cutting boards— all items where alternative materials work just as well, if not even better than their plastic counterparts — has now grown to include this particularly tricky appliance.
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After spending the last few weeks using its machine every morning, I think the brand has done a great job. On its face, it has the attributes I love about electric coffee makers (which I should note is my usual and preferred brewing method): an intuitive setup, a one-button interface, and the ability to brew a lot of coffee.
You fill the glass tank with up to ten cups of water and scoop your grounds into the basket. It comes with a reusable stainless-steel fine-mesh filter, or else you can use disposable paper filters. I tried both, and they worked great. The machine sends water through an entirely stainless-steel water path and then dispenses that water through a stainless-steel showerhead with an even distribution for even extraction. The coffee then drips down into a glass carafe. It tastes clean, balanced, and full-bodied every time — just as much as withthe OXOthat is our best overall pick and the one that has been in my own kitchen for the last few years.
The carafe has a removable lid, which secures tightly with a silicone gasket. It keeps coffee at temperature from a hot plate below, which works for up to 90 minutes. This is a heating method multiple professionals have told me they don’t like as much as an insulated stainless-steel carafe because it can lead to the coffee tasting burnt, but I didn’t notice anything off when I let it sit that full 90 minutes. I think such an unpleasant taste is more likely in the scenario where a cheap Mr. Coffee machine is plugged in all day long at the office. And the truth is, after a couple of hours in an insulated stainless-steel carafe (and I’ve tested quite a few over the years), coffee isn’t generally truly hot anymore anyway. This is all to say, I think the hot plate works fine. If you like a second cup later in the day, it’d make sense to brew another small pot, or else simply pick a different single-cup method.
I also enjoy pouring out of the glass carafe more than the stainless-steel versions from other brands I’ve used. Liquids stream out especially cleanly — both when you’re pouring water into the tank and when you’re pouring coffee into your mug. The stainless ones tend to have a heftier rim — often made from plastic — that don’t produce quite as elegant a stream.
The carafe, lid, basket, and filter insert can all go in the dishwasher. When it’s time for a machine clean, you use a descaler (either store-bought or a DIY white-vinegar solution), shift the button over to the “clean” setting — the only other option besides “brew” — and run that.
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