Can Tikka Masala Simmer Sauces Taste As Good As Takeout?

By,a writer at the Strategistand also the author of the novels 'The Windfall' and 'Destination Wedding.'
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Photo: Diksha Basu

Walking through Whole Foods uninspired and sick of cooking one day, I found Gymkhana simmer sauces on sale. One of the best meals of my life was at the two-Michelin-starred Gymkhana in London, so I had to give it a try. I picked up the tikka masala sauce because I don’t make it at home — while I am from India, tikka masala is technically a British dish and something I order from restaurants when I have a craving for a certain type of takeout Indian food. That jar made me think of simmer sauces in a whole new way, and I wondered about the other ones out there, especially because I sometimes appreciate having shortcuts for getting dinner on the table. So I set out to compare the ones I see most frequently in supermarkets and that would be the most widely available: Gymkhana, Kalustyan’s, Target’s house brand Good & Gather, Maya Kaimal, and Trader Joe’s.

Tikka masala requires tomatoes, something to give it creaminess (usually dairy), aromatics like onion, garlic, ginger, and green chile, and a blend of spices — often cumin, coriander, garam masala, fenugreek, and cardamom — but every kitchen will likely have its own subtle variations. It should taste rich, aromatic, tangy, and moderately spicy, but no one spice should overwhelm the flavor. If you were cooking this properly at home, you would likely use cubed chicken or paneer — “tikka” literally means “piece” — which you would marinate in yogurt and grill before adding the sauce (all this is precisely why I don’t make it at home). The marinated and grilled chicken adds a light smokiness to the dish.

With my entire extended family together for the end of summer at my parents’ home in Ithaca, we set out to test the simmer sauces. As the instructions for all of these suggest, I prepared each one by browning about a pound of organic ground chicken or cubed raw chicken breast and then adding in all of the simmer sauce and some handfuls of frozen chopped spinach and/or half a can of black beans and letting it all simmer for about ten minutes. We tasted each one plain and then served the whole dish with basmati rice. To varying degrees, these sauces did end up tasting close to the real thing, but of course marinating and grilling the chicken first would get you even closer. The serving sizes are not all the same, but I found one jar of each per pound of protein delivered the right amount of flavor.

My favorite

Gymkhana Tikka Masala Simmer Sauce
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The Gymkhana simmer sauce tasted exactly like what I’m craving when I’m craving Indian takeout.

It was the most expensive one I tried (it cost three times as much as the cheapest, the Good & Gather). It also looked and smelled the most restaurant-y from the moment you opened the bottle. The tikka masala was thick and smooth, with a velvety texture. Caramelized onions gave it a mellow sweetness and jamminess, and there was just the right balance of cumin and coriander, with cardamom giving it a slightly floral quality. This sauce gets the luxurious silky restaurant-style texture by using a combination of cashew, khoya (milk solids), cream, and butter. The cashews gave it a lightness that the solely dairy-based sauces, like the Maya Kaimal and Kalustyan’s, did not have.

“I don’t think I could figure out how to replicate this at home,” said my husband, the more accomplished cook in our home.

Photo: Diksha Basu

A close second

Maya Kaimal Simmer Sauce
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When you open the Maya Kaimal tikka masala, there’s some separation to the sauce with oil pooling at the top, but it quickly blends together once on the stove and has a velvety finish similar to the Gymkhana. This sauce uses a lot of dairy but no cashews to get its creamy texture. It also uses tapioca starch as a thickener and lemon-juice concentrate, which adds citrus notes to the flavor. My father noticed a mild touch of sourness that he enjoyed; he thought it added an interesting layer to the taste. I’d happily use this if the Gymkhana weren’t available, but I prefer the use of cashews for a lighter sauce (and lighter-feeling meal).

My mother, who helped me learn how to cook Indian food in an American kitchen, said this one tasted the most home-cooked, like it had been slowly simmering for hours, and was the right combination of sweet and spicy. The cumin, cinnamon, and clove gave this one a bit more warmth than the others.

Interestingly, my 9-year-old daughter, who spends a lot of time in Mumbai and New York, said she felt the Maya Kaimal was something she would eat in an Indian restaurant in America, while the Kalustyan’s (more on which below) tasted more like something she would get in a restaurant in India. My 7-year-old licked her lips and asked for the leftovers for her camp lunch the next day.

Photo: Diksha Basu

A good vegan-friendly and budget option

Trader Joe’s Tikka Masala Curry Sauce
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Trader Joe’s tikka masala is the only vegan one on the list. The most unusual ingredient in it is ground watermelon seeds, which give the sauce its creaminess and are used in very traditional Indian households — I’ve read about them but have never actually seen them in action.My mother and my younger daughter have dairy intolerances, so they were particularly thrilled about the vegan option, and my mother was impressed by how creamy it tasted without any dairy.

She thought it was a good base but would add more flavor to it, “either chile or some garam masala,” she said. I actually think it works on its own, especially if you’re also feeding children.

My husband noted that this one “doesn’t feel artificial, maybe because it’s not disconcertingly smooth. Often with ready-made things, I feel I can tell they’re ready-made, but this tastes like something we could make at home.”

Photo: Diksha Basu

More of an acquired taste

Kalyustan’s Tikka Masala Simmer Sauce
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The Kalustyan’s simmer sauce is darker and thicker, and it smells more buttery as it simmers. This one had an overpowering bitterness, and I found myself preferring the sauces that were lighter on the fenugreek.

My husband said it was “less aromatic than the Gymkhana and Maya Kaimal, not as distinctly Indian — it could almost be Mexican.” And my mother found this one to be too creamy and heavy. It veered into butter-chicken territory: Butter chicken relies more on creaminess and doesn’t use onions, while tikka masala is meant to be less buttery, with a greater emphasis on complex spices and aromatics. With this one, the fenugreek threw all the other spices out of balance.

My father said the sweetness in this one seemed more constant (it contains honey), making it almost dessertlike, and he preferred the “sparks of sweet” in the others. This is not one we would probably get again.

Photo: Diksha Basu

Tastes fine, but my least favorite

Target Good&Gather Tikka Masala Simmer Sauce
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The Target Good & Gather ingredient list has by far the most sodium — 770 milligrams per half-cup serving (the FDA recommends limiting sodium to 2,300 milligrams a day) — and lots of ingredients the others did not have, like carrageenan, cultured dextrose, guar gum, maltodextrin, and polysorbate 80.

It is, however, the cheapest, and, frankly, it tasted pretty good. It was surprisingly fresh, simple, light, and accessible — in that it was not as complex as the others. While it had quite a strong aroma of cumin, coriander, and chilli, it was harder to pinpoint those spices when tasting it. “It’s a solid backup since it’s so easily available for most people,” said my 12-year-old nephew, “but it tastes a bit like salsa.” I agree that it doesn’t taste distinctly Indian.

My father also thought it tasted “more generic. There are no elements of surprise, but it tastes lighter.”

And it’s all true: This one tastes just fine, but the sodium content and ingredients make it the weakest of the lot for me.

Photo: Diksha Basu

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