I Found a Lip Plumper That Actually Works (and Doesn’t Make Me Break Out)

By,a writer at the Strategist covering wardrobe basics and personal care.She joined the Strategist in 2020 as a junior writer. Previously, she wrote about style at Texas Monthly.

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Photo: Arielle Avila

I remember the lip plumpers of my teens: the slight burning sensation after application, the unrealistic expectations of fuller lips, and the disappointment when I’d end up with a bad reaction to the formulas. Because I’ve been burned many times by plumpers in the past, I usually stick with gentleglossesor basicbalms. Recently though, there’s been a bit of a resurgence in the category with plumpers claiming to be less harsh and more hydrating. I was skeptical of these promises, so I decided to test out seven new plumpers from Dr. Dennis Gross, Kosas, Laneige, Allies of Skin, Mutha, Danessa Myricks, and Tower28. Read on to see how it went, and whether or not I was able to find a gentle-enough product for my ultrasensitive lips.

My top picks

Tower28 Shine Plumping Lip Jelly
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Good but not great

Ultrapigmented but irritating

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Dr. Dennis Gross makes some of my favorite skin care, so I had high hopes for the brand’s new lip treatment. It comes in clear and four shades, and I went with the brown rosy option. The click-base applicator was a bit messy, especially since a little bit of product goes a long way. (I only needed less than a pea-size amount of it to completely cover my lips.) The tingling sensation was very strong — as if I had just eaten something with Sichuan peppers — and my lips did seem fuller. This was also the most pigmented of the bunch, so I think that could be a factor. The color lasted for a couple of hours — an impressive feat — but there was a big drawback. I noticed a small breakout on my bottom lip, which is a telltale sign that a product’s irritating for me. This one passed the plumping test, but I’m not sure if that’s from a mild reaction or the product itself.

Sensitive-friendly but goopy

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Next, I tried out Kosas’s Lip Pulse that came out in March. I opted for the “Sixth Sense” shade — another rosy brown — out of the five options. This one still had a tingle but was much less spicy than the Dr. Dennis Gross plumper. It’s also less pigmented, but I preferred this amount of color, since it looks more like a true lip gloss than a lipstick. The tingling didn’t last too long — about two minutes — and my lips felt like I had just applied a hydrating lip mask. This was a strong contender, especially since my lips looked and felt great, and they could tolerate this well. This one didn’t irritate my lips but it didn’t plump them either. There was another small factor that gave me pause: While it was very good at moisturizing my lips, the gloss was too thick and tacky for my liking. I found my hair sticking to it while I was out and about. Not as bad as a bad reaction, but a small annoyance still.

A nice gloss but not a plumper

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K-beauty brand Laneige made a name for itself with itscelebrity-backed lip mask, so I had high hopes for its new plumping gloss. The format of this one is the most interesting: It comes with a silicone swiper that seemed flimsier than my usual doe-foot applicators I’m used to. I had to apply a couple of layers because of this. The formula itself didn’t sting and tingled slightly. It’s moisturizing and very lightweight (also why I had to apply multiple layers), which I’ve come to appreciate when wearing this with other lip products. It also didn’t plump my lips, but more so added a glossy layer. This hasn’t been my go-to on its own, but I’ve found it’s a nice final touch afterlip linerorlipstick. Also worth noting, it only comes in a clear option.

A so-so plumping gloss

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Runners-up

The line-smoothing plumper

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Skin-care line Allies of Skin came out with its own peptide-packed lip plumper at the end of August. This is one I’d reach for first thing in the morning, which I can’t say about the others. It doesn’t have any tingling sensation post-application and instead has a refreshing, cooling effect thanks to the metal applicator. It’s the most hydrating of the plumpers I tried. I’ve used it after a long beach day spent in the salt water and sun, and my lips felt soft and moisturized after. While it doesn’t necessarily plump my lips, I’ve even noticed it smooths my lip lines almost instantly. The one potential downside with this one is that while it does come in a couple of shades, even the darkest one (Utopia) is very sheer. It’s not a deal-breaker for me personally, but if you’re looking for a plumper with more color, this is something to keep in mind.

The most pigmented with the most shades

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Danessa Myricks also came out with its own plumping lip gloss at the end of August. This one has a lot more pigment than the others and is second in opacity to Dr. Dennis Gross. It also comes in the widest color range of all the new plumpers I tested, with 11 shades and one clear option. I went with the warm medium brown Spiced Latte, which matched my natural lip color. I didn’t experience any sort of tingling when I applied it, but it gave my lips a boost of moisture. I was most impressed by the staying power of the color. It lasted a couple of hours, which I think is impressive for a gloss, and the formula wasn’t overly sticky or thick. It didn’t necessarily plump my lips either, but the pigment did make my lips look nice and full. This quickly became one of my top favorites, especially since it’s a good one-and-done option (no liner or lip stick required).

The winner

A nonsticky, glossy plumper

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As someone who’s struggled with reactive skin and eczema, I turn to Tower28 frequently for skin care. I trusted the brand could make something that wouldn’t irritate me, and it delivered. Upon first swipe, the product felt like it was buzzing on my lips rather than the hot sensation I’ve felt with the other plumpers. This wore off after a minute or two, and my lips felt nice and moisturized. I went with Static Flow, a warm beige, and while it’s light and sheer, my lips still looked defined — even slightly more than usual, which could be from the plumping — and with a shade close to my natural lip shade. This one actually seemed to give my lips a fuller look and without the irritation. The color wore off faster than the Dr. Dennis Gross and Danessa Myricks, but I didn’t mind reapplication. The tingling sensation was the most subtle (almost addictive) of the plumpers I tried, the extra hydration felt nice, and it wasn’t so thick that it felt like product was caked on my lips. While I like wearing this on its own as a very natural-looking gloss, I’ve also layered it with liners for an even more dramatic effect. I’ve reached for this multiple days in a row, reapplying it frequently, and my sensitive lips have never felt better.

More lip products we love

Violette_FR Bisou Balm - Bonbon Coquelicot
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CoverGirl Outlast Lipstain
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$9
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A Rio-approved lip stain.

Nécessaire Lip Balm
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$28

A shiny gloss (that's technically a balm).

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