Get Yourself a Meat Mallet (for More Than Just Meat)

By , a senior kitchen and dining writer at the Strategist. Previously, she was an editor at Bon Appétit and has worked in food media for nine years.

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Photo-Illustration: The Strategist; Photos: Emma Wartzman

Given my job, kitchen equipment, appliances, and tools make their way in and out of my space on a regular basis. This means two things. One, very few people gift me anything in this department, understanding that I have more than I know what to do with. And two, I am extremely discerning about what gets to stick around for good.

This norm was broken after I visited my family in Los Angeles this summer and used my mom’s Williams Sonoma mallet to make chicken cutlets. I commented on how great it was and, a couple of weeks later, received a package from her in the mail containing the very same model. I’ve used it many times since and have come to the conclusion that it absolutely, positively deserves a permanent spot in my kitchen.

Williams Sonoma Open Kitchen Meat Tenderizer
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I suppose I should say: I love cutlets. I make chicken cutlets about once every six weeks. Sometimes I do pork. Even if I’m not breading and frying, chicken paillard and chicken piccata also make semi-regular appearances for dinner.

For years, I pounded my meat with a small stainless-steel skillet or empty wine bottle. Somewhere along the way, I started pounding with a rolling pin. Sure, sometimes the meat would turn out uneven (or worse, torn), but they worked fine enough for me not to look into something better. I suppose I had to be confronted head-on with what I was missing.

A dedicated mallet is often categorized as a tenderizer, as it can also help break down fibers in tough cuts, like certain steaks, with the textured side of its head. But I’m most interested in the flat side, which produces a significantly better result than my previous stand-ins when pounding meat. The small surface means I have great control over where exactly I’m hitting, as anyone who makes cutlets knows that one side is often much thicker than the other. It’s comfortable and balanced to hold — satisfyingly weighty, but not overly so — further helping with precision.

I love my Williams Sonoma model, as the rounded stainless-steel handle makes it feel especially good in my hand. But I tested a few other less-expensive ones from other reputable brands, too, just to see if all are created equal. Indeed, I found they worked very well. (The biggest downside is that the others I used have plastic components on the handle, which makes me think they won’t last quite as long, especially if you run them through the dishwasher.)

OXO Meat Tenderizer
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Crate & Barrel Soft-Touch Meat Tenderizer
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$30

A smaller round head (like the Williams Sonoma).

KitchenAid Aluminum Meat Pounder
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$13
$17 now 24% off

The lightest of the bunch.

A mallet can also come in handy for smashing aromatics like garlic, ginger, and lemongrass. You can use it for smashed potatoes, smashed cucumber salad, or smashed green-bean salad. You can crush ice for drinks, or break down nuts or cookies (like graham crackers) for baking. I’ve done a couple of these things since getting my mallet, and I’m sure I will do more in the future — but honestly, my cutlet habit is enough to justify the tool in and of itself.

More small kitchen tools we love

Microplane Classic Zester Grater
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$13

A classic microplane (might be time to replace yours if you haven’t in a while).

Dreamfarm Fluicer
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$20

A citrus juicer with especially good leverage.

Benriner Mandoline Slicer
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$31

Don’t be afraid of a mandoline.

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