What Are Spicules — and Do I Need Them in My Skin-care Routine?
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If you’ve recently come across a topical product that promises “liquid microneedling,” it likely contains spicules, a buzzyK-beautyingredient that creates microscopic punctures in the skin. The tiny particles are derived from marine- or freshwater sponges.
“When massaged into the skin, they create thousands of tiny, temporary micro-channels in the superficial epidermis [top layer of skin],” says Dr. Jenna Queller, dermatologist and founder ofDermWorks. Those micro-channels help active skin-care ingredients penetrate more effectively and may stimulate collagen production and cellular turnover, she says. “Because of this mechanism, spicule-containing products are often referred to as ‘liquid microneedling.’”
How do spicules work, exactly?
Unlike chemicalexfoliants such as acidsor enzymes, spicules work through mechanical stimulation, creating tiny micro-injuries in the skin that allow ingredients to get through the dead outer layer of skin. “You’re also going to heal,” says Dr. Eunice Park, plastic surgeon and founder ofAirem, which focuses on clinicalK-beauty treatments. “And by virtue of healing, you’ll get collagen production.” However, she notes, the effect is limited because the particles stay close to the surface. “I think of spicules more like a delivery system than a collagen stimulator.”
How do spicules compare to microneedling?
Because of their needlelike shape and prickly feel, spicules are often marketed as liquid microneedling, but experts say they’re not the same. “Traditional microneedling uses a device with sterile needles that physically puncture the skin at controlled depths to stimulate collagen remodeling,” says Dr. Queller.
Spicules are far less controlled. “When you apply spicules topically, they’re going in and up and all over the place,” says Dr. Park. As she explained, they don’t get as deep as traditional microneedles.
What do spicules feel like?
One thing many users notice right away: Spicule products can feel intense. But the experience varies depending on the formula, says Dr. Park. “There’s no regulated metric for how much spicule is in a product,” she says. “One might feel a little bit grainy while another may literally feel like fiberglass on your skin.”
That prickly feeling can linger for up to a few days. “Personally, when I tried a spicule product, I didn’t love the sensation,” says Dr. Queller. “For about two to three days, every time I touched my face I felt a prickly discomfort until my skin naturally shed the remaining spicules.”
Who should avoid spicules — and how often should you use them?
Because they can be quite spicy, spicules aren’t for everyone. “I would caution patients withrosacea, eczema, compromised skin barriers, or active acne,” says Dr. Queller. “The micro-irritation can worsen redness or inflammation.”
“Individuals using strong actives like prescription retinoids or undergoing aggressive exfoliating treatments should consult a professional before using spicule treatments,” adds Dr. Joni Jefferson, founder and medical director ofZen Aesthetics.
For those who tolerate them, frequency depends on the formula and intensity. Dr. Queller says most are designed to be used once or twice a week to allow the skin barrier time to recover. However, some milder versions can be used more frequently, including nightly.
“Ultimately, it comes down to how intense the product feels,” says Dr. Park. “It is just grainy, or is it fire on your skin?”
What’s next for spicule technology?
While spicules are just making their mark here in the U.S., they’ve been around in Korea for some time — and the innovation is moving fast. Dr. Park notes some newer formulations are designed to deliver active ingredients, rather than simply creating a pathway for them.
“I saw one company that created a spicule that almost looks like a shard of glass with actives attached to it,” she says. “So instead of just creating a micro-channel, it’s actually delivering ingredients likevitamin Cfor deeper absorption.” We’re already seeing that here with products like Medicube One Day Exosome Shot (see below), which contain exosome-coated spicules.
Dr. Park sees this evolution as part of a larger trend: bringing cliniclike treatments into the home. “Spicules are another way for people to feel like the med spa is in their bathroom.”
Spicule treatments to try
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This serum (which comes in two strengths) uses exosome-coated spicules to drive peptides, amino acids, vitamins, exfoliating acids, andniacinamideinto the skin to smooth texture. When I first applied it, the fiberglasslike sensation was noticeable but not painful. After it was absorbed, my skin still felt prickly every time I touched it — a reminder that the spicules were still doing their job.
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This sheet mask combines soothing collagen with spicule technology, but I would’ve never guessed this mask contained spicules. It felt like a calming, hydrating overnight mask rather than anything sharp or irritating.
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This nightly serum uses retinol-infused spicules to enhance penetration and boost collagen. It feels prickly but tolerable and is designed to be gentler on skin thantraditional retinol treatments.
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This serum comes in three different strengths and uses spicules that are 14 times smaller than pores. The tingly sensation intensifies with the strengths. It also contains calming extracts and hyaluronic acid
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