8 Days Up, Down, and Around Costa Brava and the Empordà Countryside
Fall is the best time to visit this under-the-radar part of Spain.
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Everyone knows that person who spends weeks sniffing around travel blogs, going deep into Tripadvisor rabbit holes, collecting Google docs from friends of friends, and creatingA Beautiful Mind–style spreadsheets to come up with the bestvacationsand itineraries possible. In this recurring series, we find those people who’ve done all the work for you and have them walk us through a particularly wonderful, especially well-thought-out vacation they took that you can actually steal.
Twelve years ago, fresh off my first tax refund from a job as an assistant at Condé Nast, I booked a trip to Barcelona with a friend. We found ourselves hiking the Camí de Ronda, the coastal path linking fishing villages along the Costa Brava, the wild, untamed stretch of Catalonia just an hour east of Barcelona. That afternoon, we wandered into Calella de Palafrugell, an idyllic fishing village of whitewashed houses and turquoise coves, and I instantly fell in love with this corner of Spain.
A dozen years later, this past July, I returned on a solo trip to see more of the region. I began in Alt Empordà, exploring the rocky headlands of Cap de Creus flanking the bohemian town of Cadaqués, before heading south into Baix Empordà, where wild pine-backed coves surround Begur. Finally, I circled back to the village that first captured me, Calella de Palafrugell, before eventually making my way inland.
The Costa Brava may be famous for its rugged coastline, but that’s just one piece of the Empordà’s mosaic. Beyond the beaches, you’ll find medieval villages, vineyards, olive groves, and world-class cuisine rooted in local ingredients and centuries of culinary creativity. This is also Dalí country, where Figueres, Portlligat, and Púbol form the “Dalí Triangle,” and the inland countryside offers a timeless quiet that balances the energy of the coast.
Despite all it offers, the Empordà often flies under the radar, with most travelers drawn to the Balearics or southern Spain instead. But here, you get it all: golden beaches, hidden coves, national parks, vineyards, fresh seafood, hilltop villages, and an art scene rooted in Surrealism. It’s a perfect escape that trades glitzy beach clubs and overpriced hotels for raw beauty, simplicity, and soul. And while it makes for a dreamy summer escape, the magic lingers well into the fall. September and October are arguably the best months to visit, when the crowds thin out but the sun and sea still feel like summer.
Day1
11 a.m.: Board a bus to Cadaqués
To get to the Costa Brava, you can fly into Barcelona or Girona. While I would have loved to check out Girona as I’ve never been, I decided to start the trip in Barcelona because there were more convenient flight times out of Paris. After one night atthe Barcelona EDITION(Av. de Francesc Cambó, 14) in the El Born neighborhood (I used Marriott points), I booked the Moventis bus from Barcelona Estació d’Autobusos Nord (Carrer de Nàpols, 68), one of Barcelona’s main bus terminals, to Cadaqués, which was a two-hour, 45-minute ride. It was super easy and really affordable (around $30). I knew I didn’t need to have a car in Cadaqués — in fact, it would have been kind of annoying to have one there, so this was the best option for me. When we arrived at the bus stop, I walked the hilly, cobblestoned streets to my hotel,Casa Nereta. (Full disclosure: I probably should have had the hotel organize a taxi to take me there, because even though it was just a ten-minute walk, it was a bit much to do with suitcases.) I checked into my room at Casa Nereta (Carrer Pintor Joan Ponç, 1), which is a small, stylish, simple boutique hotel perched on the hillside. It’s very cute and no-frills; rooms are snug with wood-paneled headboards, and it’s easily accessible to the main drag. It’s definitely more for young, creative types who prefer hands-off hospitality and a stay that feels more like you’re renting rooms in a house, as opposed to a traditional hotel.
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4 p.m.: Explore Cadaqués
I decided to head out to explore the town, stopping into cute shops like homeware shopColmado(Carrer del Dr. Callís, 12),S’Espardenya(Carrer del Dr. Callís, 16), ceramics shopJoaquim Saló(Plaça del Passeig, 12), and high-end fashion boutiquePEPA(Plaça del Dr. Pont), which features a really strong curation of beachy capsules from brands like Céline, Jacquemus, and Loewe. The afternoon sun was strong, so after leaving PEPA, I decided to set my stuff down at the beach right in front of the shop and go for a quick dip before walking back to the hotel for dinner. My favorite wine bar in Madrid,Gota, was doing a food pop-up at Casa Nereta’s restaurant while I was there, so I ate at the hotel that night. I ordered the beetroot, peaches, and endive salad and the barbecued fish with butter and herbs. It was so good.
Day2
11 a.m.: Head to the beach
After breakfast at the hotel, I strolled over to a tiny beach I saw on my walk the day before, called Es Pianc, and decided to plop my stuff down and hang there for a while before lunch. It’s the beach right in front of Hotel Playa Sol (Platja Pianc, 3), and I just thought it looked really nice and calm, and it was well situated in the heart of town.
2 p.m.: Order paella for one at Es Baluard
After the beach, I walked over toRestaurant Es Baluard(Riba Nemesi Llorens, 2) for lunch. Es Baluard is a well-known family-run restaurant serving fresh Mediterranean seafood and rice dishes, sourced daily from local fishermen. The setting is so beautiful. It’s in this rustic but elegant dining room with arched ceilings that feel almost cave-like and is integrated into the town’s old sea wall with incredible views overlooking the town. (Pro tip: Try to reserve one of the two window seats to enhance your experience.) I ordered an individual serving of paella, green salad, and tomato bread. It was probably the best paella I’ve ever had.
8 p.m.: Order anchovies at SET Cadaqués
After walking around town, I noticedSET Cadaqués(Pl. des Portitxó, 8) seems to be where all the cool kids hang in the evenings. You’ll often see big groups of friends spilling out of the place, standing around tables with glasses of wine. I ordered the anchovies prepared simply in olive oil, patatas bravas, and a lentil salad. Next time, I’ll have to try the smashburger that everyone around me was ordering. (Pro tip: SET also has a fewroomsto rent upstairs.)
Day3
10 a.m.: Tour the Salvador Dalí House Museum in Portlligat
After breakfast at the hotel, I walked ten minutes to theSalvador Dalí House Museum in Portlligat(Platja de, 17488 Port Lligat). You have to reserve a ticket with a scheduled time in advance, which I did just a week before I left for my trip onthis website. Dalí had a deep, lifelong connection to this region, and several sites nearby celebrate his work (I didn’t get to visit the Dalí Theatre-Museum in Figueres this time, but that’s definitely on my list for my next visit). The Portlligat house was his primary residence and studio for decades, and it’s full of quirky, surreal touches that reflect his personality, like tiny rooms opening into hidden nooks, unexpected mirrors and angles, and incredible views of the bay that clearly inspired his art. Walking through it feels like stepping inside his weird brain. It rocked.
12 p.m.: Explore the Cap de Creus coastline
I recommend booking this in advance, but I got lucky with a last-minute spot on theCharter Sant Isidre, a historic traditional Catalanllaut, or sailing boat, built in 1925, that offers private charters and guided excursions along the Costa Brava, including the Cap de Creus Natural Park, with options for day trips, overnight stays, and onboard events like live music and dinners. If I had been with a group, I’d rent it out with friends, but since I was solo I joined its two-hour public tour, which is just 20 euros per person, so that I could get a better look at the Cap de Creus Natural Park by sea. We jumped in for a swim in a gorgeous swimming cove sheltered by giant cliffs, cruised around the park, and then headed back to the port.
2 p.m.: Stop for lunch at Casa Nun
I had walked byCasa Nun(Pl. des Portitxó, 6) a few times as it’s right in the center of town next to SET, so when I got off the boat, I went straight there. I started with some bread with tomato, then tried their famous beef-and-potato “milfulls” (literally “thousand layers”) — a multilayered dish of small, tender beef patties interwoven with thin slices of potato and finished with a rich pepper sauce. Absolutely do not sleep on this one.
3:30 p.m.: Spend a lazy day at the beach on the eastern side of town
Up until this point, I’d mostly stuck to the main tourist drag of Cadaqués, so I decided to wander farther east along the water. I passed a few open-water swimming spots off the cliffs, accessed by long stairways down to the rocks, and then came across La Sal Es Xiringuito Ses Oliveres — a lively, casual beachside restaurant I would’ve definitely booked for lunch if I’d been with a group. The restaurant sits on the charming bay of Ses Oliveres, and just across the water, I spotted a pretty beach, called Platja del Ros, so I settled in there for the rest of the afternoon.
More Cadaques …
•Artisanal ice cream at Joia(Riba des Poal, 1)
•Traditional pastry at Can Cabrisas(Plaça Doctor Trèmols, 8): Try thetap dolç(sweet cork), a small sponge cake shaped like a Champagne cork.
•Lunch atReMei(Ribe Des Pianc, 11) andBatalla(Riba Pitxot, 10)
Day4
10 a.m.: Taxi to Begur and check into a new hotel
I packed my things, had a quick breakfast at the hotel, then called a taxi to drive me to Begur for my next stop along the Costa Brava. Cadaquès is located in the north of Empordà, in a region called Alt Empordà, whereas Begur, and the part of the Costa Brava I’m more familiar with, is in Baix Empordà. Alt Empordà’s coastline is a bit more rugged, and I actually prefer the gentler coastline and more scenic terrain of the Baix Empordà, with its rolling hills, vineyards, farmland, pine forests, and small, sheltered coves and sandy beaches. Begur is one of the most charming hillside towns on the Costa Brava, and I’d recommend basing here to anyone visiting the area — it’s got a great mix of solid restaurants, cute shops, lively cafés, and markets, and it’s close to some of the best beaches.
This was a pricey taxi, costing me just under $200 for an hour-and-a-half drive, but I had planned to rent a car in Begur as that’s where I’d be returning it, so I figured this was the most convenient option. I arrived in Begur and checked intoLa Bionda(Carrer de Francesc Forgas, 1), an amazing boutique hotel housed in a 17th-century townhouse. I was greeted with the warmest welcome from the team, including the owner, Carla, whom I noticed throughout my stay greeting every guest with the same genuine affection. I settled into my room, “the Carmen,” one of seven uniquely styled spaces, each dedicated to an inspirational woman of the 20th century. Every room features bespoke furnishings and playful details that quietly echo its namesake’s legacy; mine included a striking red-tiled bathroom, a nod to legendary flamenco dancer Carmen Amaya. I changed quickly, met the rental-car guys fromRent a Car Costa Bravawho were dropping my car at the parking garage next to the hotel, and headed off to explore some of Begur’s incredible beaches.
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2 p.m.: Wander around Aiguafreda
After a scenic ten-minute drive down to the coast, I parked atHostal Restaurant Sa Rascassa(Cala Aiguafreda, 3) and stopped into the restaurant for some sailor-style mussels, which is the more garlicky, French alternative to the more simple steamed mussels (both options are available on the menu). After lunch, I walked toward Cala Aiguafreda, a quiet cove on a flat platform where a few small fishing boats are moored. Walking past the smallxiringuito(a small casual beach bar and kiosk), I followed the hiking path along the coast, which was perfectly shaded by pine forests. I also walked past a few other cliffside coves accessed via long, winding stone staircases.
3 p.m.: Arrive at Sa Tuna beach and take a swim
Ten minutes into the hike from Cala Aiguafreda, I arrived at Sa Tuna, a lively little village with a beach framed by pastel fishermen’s houses. The calm, clear waters and pebbly shore make it a perfect spot for swimming and snorkeling, and the atmosphere was really family-friendly and lively. There were a few busy seaside restaurants on the beach that felt really local, including Hostal Restaurant Sa Tuna, which had been highly recommended to me. I jumped in the water to cool off.
Across the way from Sa Tuna, I spotted a more remote cove, which Google Maps indicated as “Cala s’Eixugador.” I walked over to a local fisherman sitting in his boat and asked him how to get there. He told me to just follow the coastal path around the restaurants and it would lead me there, so that’s exactly what I did. After a 20-minute hike along the shady path to this remote cove, I finally arrived. The cove did require a brief, mild rock-climbing scramble to descend, so I’d encourage appropriate footwear (I really put my rubber Havaianas flip-flops to the test …). With my shoe-choice odds against me, I somehow made it down semi-gracefully. It definitely had a more vibey atmosphere, with people openly drinking and reggaeton blasting from speakers. I spent a blissful lazy afternoon reading and swimming (dodging jellyfish!) before beginning my scenic stroll back to the car park, which, in total, took me about 45 minutes.
Day5
11 a.m.: Hike toward Aigua Blava
After a slow morning and breakfast at the hotel, I was out exploring again. I parked at thePlatja Fonda parking lot(Carrer Platja Fonda, 20C), which was a big open lot that cost the euro equivalent of $3.50, and started following the path along the wild coastline. I passed some tranquil coves where just a few locals were getting their morning swims in, but I decided to claim my real estate when I reached the small sandy bay of Cala Malaret, about a ten-minute walk from Platja Fonda.
2 p.m.: Order brothy lobster rice at Toc al Mar
I continued my hike along the shaded coastal path toward Cala d’Aiguablava, which has spectacular views along the way; it took 25 minutes from Cala Malaret. I finally reachedToc al Mar(Carrer Platja d’Aiguablava, 8), one of the most beloved restaurants in this part of Costa Brava and one I’d been to many years ago. It’s a casual destination restaurant and perfect for couples, friends, and families. It’s famous for its rice dishes, like its brothy lobster rice, Empordà dark rice, and square paella, which I’d had before. Local friends also rave about the wild-caught fish and shellfish grilled over an oakwood fire. Since I was dining solo, I went with the razor clams, which are another menu standout.
More Begur …
•Dinner at Casa Juanita(Carrer Pi i Ralló, 7), known for its fresh seafood cooked in a traditional oakwood oven. Order whatever fish they have baked in that, topped with potatoes, onions, tomatoes, garlic, parsley, white wine, and olive oil, and served straight from the tinfoil.
•Additional coastal hikes:While I stuck to the eastern and southern coastal paths, there are also the northern coastal paths (Sa Riera, Illa Roja, Platja del Racó).
•Weekly marketsare located both on the beach and in the village. Visitthis websiteto check the calendar, as it changes seasonally.
•Dinner at Clara(Carrer de Santa Teresa, 3), the new restaurant in town. I ordered the bread with tomato spread, burrata with peaches, and the tuna-loin carpaccio. I don’t eat octopus, but everyone around me was ordering the octopus brioche, which I hear is worth the hype.
•Stay at hotelFinca Victoria: A good option if you prefer to be closer to the beach and not in town (Carrer del Mar, 4).
Day6
11 a.m.: Spend the day at Calella de Palafrugell
After an amazing facial atthe Studioat La Bionda, it was time for the beach. Just a 20-minute drive from Begur, Calella de Palafrugell is the vibrant little fisherman’s village that made me fall in love with the Costa Brava 12 years ago, when I first stumbled upon it on a hike along the Camí de Ronda, the old coastal path that once linked all the fishing villages of the region. Today, it’s as idyllic as ever, preserving its whitewashed houses with terra-cotta roofs, narrow cobbled streets, and little boats pulled up onto sandy coves offering slivers of shade to sunbathers posted up there daily. The whole place feels completely stuck in time, with families gathering in the plazas where the beach’s lifeguards know their names, cafés and restaurants spilling out onto the waterfront, and that easygoing Mediterranean rhythm. I lingered on one of the sandy coves for hours before heading to lunch.
2 p.m.: Eat sage pasta at Margarita
I had booked a reservation atMargarita(Carrer Calau, 10), a restaurant that opened recently in an old fisherman’s home right on the water. I was between the lemon and sage pasta with almond Pecorino and capers or the linguine with red shrimp tartar, lime, and Pecorino, and the waitress tipped me to the first one. I finished it off with a decadent and extremely rich dulce de leche flan.
More Calella de Palafrugell …
•Shopping at Carla Llimona(Carrer de les Voltes, 1)
•Lunch or dinner at Sol i Mar(Carrer Miramar, 19), one of my favorites in the area.
•Visit the nearby town of Llafranc, which is just a five-minute drive from Calella de Palafrugell. It feels like Calella’s older, more buttoned-up cousin, with an elegant palm-lined promenade with some seemingly nice restaurants (Isabella’s looked like a chic place to grab a meal), and a broad, orderly sandy beach with tons of young families posted up.
Day7
10 a.m.: Head inland to hilltop village of Pals
Ahead of the trip, I knew I wanted to explore Empordà beyond the coast, where I’d never previously been. I had reached out to the hospitality companyViu Empordà, which I’d heard incredible things about through my Spanish friendsPia RiverolaandJúlia Juste, two travelers I trust blindly, and asked if it had any small homes I could rent. Casa Daró, its only listing available at the time, wasn’t available for check-in until 4 p.m., so I decided to make my way inland and check out some of the hilltop villages, starting with Pals, which was a ten-minute drive from Begur. I wandered around and popped into some cute shops, likeNalu Home(Carrer de l’Hospital, 23) andBonKarma Vintage Boutique(Carrer de l’Hospital, 16), which had a pretty epic vintage assortment, including brands like Prada and Loewe.
2:30 p.m.: Visit the Gala Dalí Castle & Museum in Púbol
I decided to drive to theGala Dalí Castle & Museumin the village of Púbol (Gala Dali, s/n), which was just ten minutes away. I was able to get in without a reserved ticket, but it’s always best to book ahead, which you can do on thesame websiteas all the other Dalí hits in the area. This is a 14th-century fortress that Salvador Dalí transformed into a private retreat for his wife and muse, Gala. Filled with surreal decorative touches and antiques, it became her sanctuary, her mausoleum, and later Dalí’s final studio, completing what is known today as the famed “Dalí Triangle.”
4:15 p.m.: Relax at Casa Daró in Matajudaica
I finally arrived atCasa Daróin the tiny village of Matajudaica. Pablo was there to greet me and show me around the house. The house is set within a lush garden, featuring a shaded patio and a plunge pool that offers stunning sunset views. Inside, open-plan living areas, earthy furnishings, and abundant natural light seamlessly extend outdoors. On the kitchen island was a basket of locally sourced products from the area. Its collection of homes goes far beyond what you’d find on mainstream platforms like Airbnb.
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More Empordà …
•Hilltop village of Peratallada:Peratallada has tightly woven stone streets with fortified walls and a central castle. It feels even more storybooklike than Pals, with a stronger sense of a preserved medieval village, and it definitely feels less touristy with fewer shops and restaurants.
•Lunch and shopping at Última Parada(km 12, C-66, 5), a unique hybrid that’s part general store, part antique-furniture shop, and part restaurant.
•Caterina Roma(GIV-6426, 6), a local ceramicist’s studio near Gala Dalí Castle & Museum in Púbo.
•Dinner at simple countryside restaurant Comedor Verdor(Diseminado Barri del Moli-masos Pals, 1)
Day8
10 a.m.: Make breakfast at home
When I woke up, I went downstairs to the kitchen and whipped up eggs, arranged a plate of fresh fruit, toasted bread with local marmalade, and assembled a board of artisanal cheeses and local sausages. I squeezed fresh oranges for juice, then carried my coffee and breakfast out to the shaded veranda, where I settled in with my book and savored the morning.
11 a.m.: Visit Alzueta Gallery’s countryside gallery at Palau de Casavells
Casa Daró is just a three-minute drive from the beautiful Palau de Casavells, a contemporary-art center housed in a 16th-century farmhouse in the medieval village of Casavells that operates as part of the Alzueta Gallery network, which also has locations in Barcelona, Madrid, and Paris. I was there to see the deeply immersive and ethereal exhibition by Spanish artist Violeta Maya and the abstract work of German artist Wolfgang Voegele.
8 p.m.: Have one last dinner at a local place near the house
I stopped for dinner atLa Fusteria(Plaça de la Llotja, 7) in the village of Ullastret, which at this hour was bathed in a soft, golden glow. Ullastret feels slightly more polished than its neighboring villages. La Fusteria is a more casual deli-style restaurant compared to the other fancier restaurants in the village, which is exactly what I was after. I ordered a Mediterranean-style salad with tuna and a roast-beef panini, which turned out to be surprisingly one of my favorite meals of the trip. I topped off the meal with a traditional Catalan cheesecake.
More inland Baix Empordà …
•Shop the local produce from the local markets, like incredible tomatoes and veggies at Hortícola Marisa (mas camp del porxo sn) in Palau-Sator, andrecuit,a soft, creamy cheese typical of the region, at Ca la Nuri (Carrer Valls, 2) in Ullastret.
•Visit the medieval village of Monells, another one that feels straight out of a storybook, with a wide central square with restaurants, arcaded stone buildings, and cobblestoned streets. The Rissec River runs through the middle, once powering the mills that gave the village its name, and today the two sides of the village are connected by old stone pedestrian bridges that lead into the heart of town.
•Check outCerámica Samperein La Bisbal (Carrer de l’Aigüeta, 49).
•VisitPalau Solterra Museumin Torroella (Carrer de l’Església, 10).
Monica’sCostaBravapackinglist
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My rosacea-prone skin would be in really bad shape from all of the sun if I hadn’t discovered this miracle product by La Roche-Posay this summer. I put this on every night after a long day in the sun when my face feels like it’s overheating or about to flare up, and it truly heals me! The SPF version is great for daytime use.
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Water shoes go with me everywhere in the summer, but especially to the Costa Brava, as I like to sit on the rocks or swim in pebbly coves. I have the dollar-store version of these Cressi ones that I got from a surf shop in Salento a few years ago.
[Editor’s note: These shoes are sold out in many sizes online, but a few sizes are available on Amazon right now.]
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A festive Tombolo shirt is perfect for the quirky surreality of the Costa Brava. These are my favorites at the moment.
[Editor’s note: Both shirts have limited sizes available right now.]
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I wore my Laoli puka necklace all summer. It’s elegant but still fun and easy to take from day to night.
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