My Hunt for the Perfect Brown Suede Belt

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Photo-Illustration: The Strategist; Photo: Tessa Kauppila

It was about two months ago when I looked up from my seat on a crowded subway, and there, at eye level, peeking out from the opening of a wool coat, was a beautiful belt: soft, chocolaty-brown suede with a gleaming gold buckle. Maybe it was the chic woman wearing it (she paired it with atriangle scarfand chunky black glasses), but it felt particularly sophisticated yet casual against her jeans. Crucially, the gold buckle was eye-catching but not gaudy. Before I could inquire about where she got it, the coat was pulled shut, and the belt and its owner got off at the next stop.

In the weeks that followed, I couldn’t stop thinking about the belt. And so I took to the internet, knowing that with a little hunting, I, too, could find a suede belt that just might be the envy of my fellow subway riders. I was open to anything in the brown color family, from rich cocoa to grayish-brown taupe, and wanted a classic geometric buckle, ideally a rectangle orD-shape. Preferably, the buckle would be gold, like the one I saw on the train, but I wasn’t totally opposed to silver, either. I also wanted it to sit on the hip, not the waist, and be at least one inch thick. With all this in mind, I got to work, trying on all my belts with my designated “experiment control” jeans.

Photo: Tessa Kauppila

The Ones That Didn’t Cut It

Photo: Tessa Kauppila
Photo: Tessa Kauppila

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The Gap rarely does me wrong, and yet I felt like the belt I received in the mail didn’t resemble its online counterpart, arriving with a buckle that looked like it’d oxidized, whereas the one I saw online looked shinier and pristine. I was ready to chalk it up to just one bad buckle, but the belt itself was flimsy, too. The leather felt limp, and I didn’t see it lasting more than a season. Bummer, because Gap also has this available in a range of appealing wintry jewel tones, like purple burgundy and a deep navy blue.

Photo: Tessa Kauppila
Photo: Tessa Kauppila

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This one had a lot going for it: a classic, softly rounded buckle shape; a great chocolaty color; a price point under $50. But it didn’t have theje ne sais quoithat my subway muse’s belt did — in other words, it didn’t add any excitement to my otherwise simple outfit of a white tee and blue jeans. The search continued.

[Editor’s note: Mango’s Suede Belt is sold out in Chocolate, but you can sign up forrestock notifications here.]

Photo: Tessa Kauppila
Photo: Tessa Kauppila

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This Maje belt, on the other hand, had character. With contrast stitching and a covered buckle, it was unlike any other belt I tried. Ultimately, I was on the quest for a belt to wear with a classic denim look, and — maybe it was the wash of my experiment-control jeans — this one didn’t answer the original brief. (It would fabulously cinch a blazer, though.)

The Ones That Got Me Thinking

Photo: Tessa Kauppila
Photo: Tessa Kauppila

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Now, I know this is a pivot in buckle color, but I was intrigued by the large, asymmetrical rectangular hardware and metal-tipped end … which I really liked until it didn’t reach my next jean belt loop and kept flopping around. That said, I loved the thickness (about 1.25 inches) and was actually quite into the silver, which gave it a western feel.

[Editor’s note: Free People’s Dover Suede Belt in Espresso is currently unavailable, but you can still purchase some appealing jewel tones likeEmerald and Sour Cherry here.]

Photo: Tessa Kauppila
Photo: Tessa Kauppila

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While the silver Free People belt was a fun departure, I decided I ultimately did want a gold buckle. So much for being open-minded. But this one overcompensated: It’s too yellow-gold. I don’t mind that for my rings, but feel less inclined when it’s in the large format that is the belt buckle. The quartet of belt holders that you slip the leather through earned it a point, though.

The Winners

Photo: Tessa Kauppila
Photo: Tessa Kauppila

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Ultimately, I landed on three belts in three different price points, this one being the under-$100 option. I had a hard time choosing between Dark Brown Suede and Brown (which was more of a milky latte shade) as I shopped online, so I ordered both. In person, I gravitated toward the darker one — it looked more expensive than its price point. The half-moon buckle was distinct but still relatively understated, making it a fabulous seasonal addition to a variety of different outfits.

Photo: Tessa Kauppila
Photo: Tessa Kauppila

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After my last few belts have frayed less than a year in, I thought,Perhaps it’s the time to invest, and sought out downtown-and-now-also-uptown cool brand Kallmeyer onMadison Avenue. I didn’t want it to be true — that an over-$400 belt would be that much different — but the quality was undeniable: It was soft to the touch and substantial (I could imagine wearing this one for decades to come), and the thick brass-horseshoe buckle was the clasp and color I crave.

Photo: Tessa Kauppila
Photo: Tessa Kauppila

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Made from suede that truly looks velvety, and with a light-gold buckle and two spaced-out belt holders, this taupe belt quickly made its way atop the podium. Plus, it’s just over $100, making it a bit of a splurge but still very reasonable once you start thinking about cost per wear and a belt’s near-infinite lifetime. I was surprised that two of my favorite belts from the hunt weren’t in the dark-brown color that originally caught my eye, but this lighter shade popped against denim beautifully and felt especially versatile — it looked just as good with a white tee as it did with a dressier knit pullover.

[Editor’s note: While Sézane’s Oria Belt in Taupe suede is currently sold out, you can sign up forrestock notification here. Or consider the brown leather “Choco Smooth” style.]

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