Ask a Picky Guy: Summer Shorts Report
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Whether he’strying on everything at Banana Republic, testing the latestportableandwindow air conditioners,or asking Todd Snyder aboutdesigning J.Crew’s Ludlow suit, senior writer Michael Zhao has quickly become the Strategist’s resident picky guy. He’s here to answer your questions about men’s style, highly specific appliance hunts, impossible gifting assignments, and whatever else you need a picky guy’s take on. Send your questions topickyguy@nymag.com.
“What shorts are we wearing this summer? Do they need to be big?”
It’sVogue-official now: This summer, big shorts aren’tjust for women. Try them on if you have the chance, but don’t force it if it doesn’t feel right. It’s hard to look good in clothes you don’t feel good about.
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I’m still unsure about these ultra-baggy Engineered Garments x GU utility shorts (14-inch) inseam, but at least they’re made from 100 percent cotton.
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For something a bit less trendy, these slightly long climbing shorts hit right at the knee. They come in many colors and fabrics (here’s a cotton version) and will still read as big without tipping into costume territory.
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If you want to experiment with a wider fit but keep the standard length, these double-pleated shorts, resurrected from Banana Republic’s archives, have plenty of room while still hitting well above the knee.
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If you like a trad-style short but prefer linen to cotton, I liked therunway versionof these COS shorts — even if the matchingcollarless blazerwas a bit of a miss.
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If you prefer more sun on your legs, I really enjoyed wearing these unique cargo shorts during the recent heat wave. Despite their rather short 6.7-inch inseam, the stacked-pocket design (modeled on old roofing pants) accommodates full-size cargo pockets.
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Corduroy is typically associated with winter clothing, but it’s actually really breathable in summer heat. I would’ve liked belt loops in addition to the drawstring waistband, but these shorts are really comfortable and flattering — even on women. They fit true to size.
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CDLP Swim Shorts
Clothing designer Aaron Levine described the 2.6-inch inseam on these swim trunks as “risky short,” but that didn’t stop him from wearing them as hisonly pair of bottoms for a weeklong beach vacation. The substantial yet silky nylon cloth feels structured and luxurious, befitting the price. Note that it has a mesh liner.
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I recommend these unlined gym shorts to anyone looking for more plastic-free workout clothes. Most merino clothes get clingy when wet, but these fast-drying shorts are made from a blend of wool and wood-derived Lyocell, which gives them a crisp, cool, cottonlike texture.
“Any recommendations for a compact umbrella that won’t flip inside out and waterproof shoes that won’t make me look like a kid?”
With umbrellas, you can have only two of the following features: lightweight, durable, full coverage. The right combination for you depends on your height and tolerance for carrying weight. As for waterproof shoes, since you don’t want to “look like a kid,” I take it you’re trying to avoid galoshes and slip-ons, so I’ll focus on laced options.
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I’ve long been a fan of Davek’s guaranteed-for-life umbrellas. I personally carry the largerSolo, but I’d probably get the slightly lighter, smaller Commuter if I were a bit shorter and didn’t need as much coverage.
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Senior writer Lauren Roswears by the Mini, which weighs only half a pound. But its 34-inch-diameter canopy is better for showers and drizzle than for gusty storms.
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While not quite as sturdy as the Daveks, these Duckheads are a bit lighter and still very well-made. They’re also more affordable and look much cuter peeking out of a tote bag. The bold colors and fun patterns can really brighten a dreary day.
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For something a bit cheaper, though not as nice-looking, I’ve bought and lost this umbrella three times in the past decade and it’s been solid every time. It weighs under a pound yet has a 42-inch diameter canopy, and the fiberglass ribs are highly wind-resistant.
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As withrain jackets, Gore-Tex remains the gold standard for breathable waterproofing. And almost every popular hiking or hiking-adjacent shoe is available in a “GTX” version these days, including the classic Moab. A mid-top is great for keeping splashes out.
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Although the XT6 is the more popular Salomon, the XA Pro offers more ventilation. This is all the more important when adding a waterproof membrane, which further reduces breathability.
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If you want something a little more traditional or durable to go with your workwear wardrobe, many of Danner’s resoleable boots are available with Gore-Tex.
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While I tend to associate On sneakers with finance guys, this hiking shoe is becoming more common among menswear enthusiasts who shop forAuraleeand similar brands. These use On’s own waterproof membrane — not Gore-Tex — but are very supportive and come in a nice shade of brown.
Other waterproof shoes I like
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The favored Hoka among ravers who prefer cushier soles.
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Given its low price, Adidas's outdoor gear should be way more popular than it is.
“What jeans do you recommend for the summer?”
You might think that lighter is better, but in my experience, width is more important. Dark denim is actually great at blocking the sun, but if it’s pressed against your skin, it just transfers that heat to your body. And tightness feels even less tolerable in humidity, no matter how light the fabric.
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I’m on the record as anappreciator of pleated jeans, but these selvedge denim trousers recommended byBrooks and Erin Reitzare even better. The wider leg is much flowier than the straight-fit Noah jeans and feel more breathable as a result.
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I’m not sure why Lee calls these pleated pants chinos, since they’re clearly made of denim. They’re slightly more tapered than the Niwakis, but the drawstring waist makes it easy to size up for a looser, cooler-feeling fit.
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For a lighter color, I like Buck Mason’s newest denim silhouette. I recently tried on every pair of bottoms the brand sells, and this vintage-inspired high-waisted jean felt the sturdiest and had the most flattering cut — it’s more of a straight cut with a bit of ease than a truly oversize fit. The buckled strap running across the back of the waistband harkens to prewar Levi’s designs.
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If you want something more modern, the newest Levi’s 501sgave my thighs plenty of room to breathe, and the light wash denim felt soft and airy against my skin. They’re also not as loose as the name would suggest. Definitely relaxed, but well short of a JNCO.
Other loose jeans I like for summer
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Made from slow-woven Japanese selvedge denim that's soft from day one and exceptionally breathable.
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An affordable way to experiment with wider pants. Made from 100 percent cotton denim.
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Made with regeneratively grown cotton denim and available in many different washes.
A first look at Jamie Haller’s new men’s loafer
Over the past year, I’ve acquired about half a dozen pairs of loafers and tried on dozens more, so I was genuinely surprised to find that Jamie Haller’s new Men’s Penny Loafer felt unlike anything I’d previously put on. Its half-inch heel height and single-layer leather outsole are 50 percent thinner than those of a typical penny loafer, and its meticuloussachetto construction(meaning the lining is stitched directly into the upper) gives it a glove-like fit that’s more flexible and accommodating than some barefoot shoes I’ve tried. Looks aside, it has more in common with a high-end ballet flat than a typical penny loafer.
This shoe’s uniquely flexible sole and luxurious leather upper are what made the women’s versionso popular. But high-end men’s shoes are often sold based on their heritage rather than their comfort. At $725, these loafers are in direct competition with offerings from Alden and Crockett & Jones, both of which have owned and operated their own factories since the Victorian era. But neither of these storied brands would ever think to craft a shoe in this way; nor could they, since expertise in sachetto construction doesn’t exist in America or England. And as minimalist footwear becomes increasingly popular, this is a much more elegant option than other moccasin- or sneaker-soled options I’ve come across.
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One more thing: The Sigma BF reminds us why cameras still matter
Your phone’s camera roll may look like it’s full of photos, but those are actually composite images that have been algorithmically interpreted and combined to maximize detail. This is why phone photos so often lack the emotional impact of film and the immediacy of a digital snap. And even a high-end smartphone’s camera sensor is only a twelfth the size of a single frame of 35-mm. film and about half the size of a digital pocket camera, which is why it needs so much computational assistance to produce a decent image.
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The Sigma BF may be a digital camera, but its film-size full-frame sensor puts it on equal footing with its analog predecessors in terms of light capture. Combine that with a suite of exceptionally sharp (and relatively affordable) interchangeable lenses, a dead-simple interface, and the ability to keep up to 14,000 photos in its built-in storage, and it could hardly be easier to capture stunningly dynamic images of special moments just as you remember them. And all you need to get them onto your phone is a simple USB-C cable — no fiddly app or Wi-Fi necessary.
Unfortunately, at a hair under one pound, including the battery, this solid block of machined aluminum is just so heavy and bulky that bringing it anywhere felt like a chore — especially with the big lens hanging off the end (I tested the35-mm. f/2 DG), which adds another 0.72 pounds. I much prefer the pocket-friendly form factor of myRicoh GR IIIX, even if its slightly smaller APS-C sensor isn’t quite as filmic. But if Sigma ever figures out a way to cram a full-frame sensor and retractable lens into a semi-pocketable camera, I’ll be the first to preorder it.
All photos are unedited JPEG files, straight from the camera. Click through to see more.
Michael Zhao
Michael Zhao
Michael Zhao
Michael Zhao
Michael Zhao
Michael Zhao
Michael Zhao
Michael Zhao
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