Ask a Picky Guy: A Suit With More Swag Than a Typical Navy Two-piece?
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Whether he’s trying on everything inthe latest Uniqlo U collectionor reviewing the latest Dysonfloorcleaners(andinterviewing their inventor), senior writer Michael Zhao has quickly become the Strategist’s resident picky guy. He’s here to answer your questions about men’s style, highly specific appliance hunts, impossible gifting assignments, and whatever else you need a picky guy’s take on. Send your questions topickyguy@nymag.com.
“I’m attending a spring wedding in New Orleans and want to buy a suit with more swag than a typical navy two-piece, something like the sold-outSmall Talk Studio canvas suit.”
The relaxed-fit silhouette of the suit you mentioned is typical of the growing “soft suiting” trend in menswear. These unpadded jackets lack an interlining and drape more like an overshirt or large cardigan. If you have a slight build, this can have a billowy effect that looks great in motion. But with less material to work with, a tailor may find it harder to achieve a flattering fit for those with larger proportions.
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The good news is that the Small Talk suit is back in stock, but the material has changed from a cotton-linen-blend canvas to a heavyweight linen twill. But just because it’s linen doesn’t mean it’s good in hot weather. “Twelve- or 14-ounce linen is fine if you’re in San Francisco and the hottest it gets in the summer is 70 degrees Fahrenheit,” said menswear expertPeter Zottolo. “But if you wear that in New York, you’re going to die in the summertime,” because heavyweight linen is not very breathable. Springtime in the South might be doable, but make sure you pair it with a light shirt.
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Toast’s take on double-breasted soft suiting is made from an overdyed “micro-houndstooth” cotton canvas that lends it depth and texture similar to Small Talk’s linen fabric. The patch pockets and lack of vents and lining on the jacket give it a casual look, but that’s fine if you weren’t planning on wearing a dress shirt and tie anyway. I like it with a neckerchief and an oxford shirt.
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For a bit less, Wax London’s linen double-breasted set comes with light shoulder padding and single-pleated trousers, which together create a slightly more refined silhouette than the more casual Toast suit. It’s made from a lighter, loosely woven linen fabric that breathes just fine in the heat even if it doesn’t drape quite as elegantly as Small Talk’s heavyweight twill.
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The NN07 Jordin Blazer and matching Kay pants may be made of a dressy-feeling navy wool fabric that would look nice with a dress shirt and tie, but the jacket’s slouchy fit and patch pockets can go more casual as well — see the flip-flops worn by the model in the product shots. The matching Kay pants are extra loose for maximum flowiness.
“What’s a good gift for someone you don’t know super-well but want to impress? E.g., as thanks for a job reference.”
When in doubt,listen to Plum Sykesand gift consumably. A bit of social-media reconnaissance can help determine whether their tastes lean more toward the classic or the adventurous. For example, off-the-beaten-path vacation photos may suggest a preference for a more natural Chavost over Moët Chandon, or for Le Labo’s Thé Matcha over Diptyque Baies. I’ve focused on the lesser known here.
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Laurie Ellen’s shortbreads are snackable yet refined. She’s less well known for her savory biscuits, but they’re just as delicious. This bundle includes the best of both, and you can even add a handwritten card.
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These date-sweetened chocolate bars have the flavor and texture of the real thing but are made without refined sugar. They have none of the graininess I typically encounter with date-based treats and are available with unusual toppings such as mixed berries, fennel pollen, and, my personal favorite, chile mango.
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My sommelier friend told me that the Sunday-brunch staff at the fine-dining restaurant he used to work at would compete to see who could sell the most Billecart to people who’d otherwise order Veuve, Moët, or some other Champagne with a more recognizable name. This wasn’t because it offered better margins; it’s just a better product for the price.
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Renowned chef Massimo Bottura ages this balsamic vinegar in small batches, using three different types of wood before it’s ready to use in his three-Michelin-starred restaurant. An even smaller amount makes it onto store shelves, but a little drizzle is all that’s needed to make any salad taste special.
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This candle smells like sipping a mojito in the shade of a weathered pine tree overlooking the ocean. Even if your recipient isn’t into candles, they’ll love the stoneware jar it comes in. (Freezing the container shrinks the wax, making it easier to remove the dregs.) For more fragrance gifts, check out Sykes’sguide forSecret Strategist.
“My husband is determined to have only one bottle in his shower. He likes Bioderma Atoderm Oil but doesn’t like the smell. Are there any good alternatives?”
“I don’t love oils on the scalp as a ‘shampoo,’” said Dr. Melissa K. Levin, ofEntière Dermatology, when I asked her about your husband’s one-bottle routine. She explained that this can exacerbate or cause dandruff and that product residue can build up over time, leading to clogged pores and inflamed or even infected follicles. “It can be used as a pre-shampoo treatment, but then it should be followed by a shampoo.” That said, if he insists, I found a few alternatives worth trying.
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Both Dr. Levin and Strategist beauty writerKrista Bennett DeMaiocited this cleansing oil as a good unscented option with ingredients similar to those in Bioderma Atoderm Oil. My wife has it in her shower, and it’s a very gentle, nourishing cleanser that doesn’t leave my skin feeling dry on the occasions I use it.
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If he’s looking for a different scent, he could try this option, which Strategist writer Brenley Goertzen says “smells as good as everyone says.” It’s not going to be as gentle as Bioderma Atoderm or the La Roche-Posay cleansing oils, but it’s worth a shot if he would prefer a “warm musky scent” to the Atoderm’s subtly floral smell. I’d recommend getting it from Sephora so he can return it if it doesn’t work out.
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At the risk of never being taken seriously on any hygiene-related topic ever again, I will confess that I, too, am a one-bottle-in-the-shower guy. But only because doctor turned journalist James Hamblin convinced me I didn’t need anything else in his 2020 book,Clean: The New Science of Skin. “Five years ago, I stopped showering,” is the opening line, and the rest of the book makes a thoroughly researched and compelling case for why it’s worth trying. Hairstory New Wash is my current bottle of choice for keeping my hair clean and soothing my itchy scalp two to three times a week, though I’mactively exploring cheaper alternatives.
One more thing: Is Auralee worth it?
Among people who care deeply about clothing, the Japanese clothesmaker Auralee has become synonymous with material and construction quality. Its button-up shirts and five-pocket jeans start at over $500, but fans claim that you have to try them on to understand why they’re worth it. To see for myself, I bought a size-4Finx cotton twill shirt($545) from Vancouver’s Haven, which has some of the most consistentAuralee inventoryin North America. And for comparison, I ordered a medium,relaxed-fit cotton shirt from Theory($225).
Both shirts are sewn from lightweight, 100 percent cotton cloth that feels crisp and silky — like a set of high-end bed sheets — but the Vietnam-produced Theory has better construction quality. Even if the Japanese-made Auralee shirt’s denser stitching (20 stitches per inch versus 16) and stiff collar stays give it a higher-end look, Theory’sside gussetsandbutton shankswill make it more durable in the long run. Furthermore, while each seam on the Theory was perfectly aligned, the Auralee’s left-armpit junction was a few millimeters off-center. At less than half the price, the Theory is by far the better value. Yet after trying them both on and wearing them around for a day each, I’d choose the Auralee if I could keep only one.
Specs and construction methods are easy to compare online, but it’s impossible to tell how a shirt will fit and feel until you’ve actually worn it. Both of these shirts have a relaxed cut that’s long enough to tuck yet short enough to wear untucked. But unlike the tailored Theory, the Auralee shirt’s straight sides don’t need a jacket or sweater to complete the silhouette. It’s similar in shape toMargaret Howell’s similarly priced poplin shirt, but the Auralee drapes and moves more fluidly because the Finx twill fabric is naturally stretchy and more wrinkle-resistant without relying on spandex or other synthetic materials. The end result is a more refined fit that’s difficult to discern from still photos but immediately apparent in person. Both my wife and our visiting friend preferred the fit of the Auralee to that of the Theory but neither could describe it in words, and, after much consternation, neither can I. Turns out, you really do need to try it on to understand.
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