Mary H.K. Choi’s Desperate Hunt for an Eyeliner Replacement
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Mary H.K. Choi is the author ofEmergency Contact,Permanent Record, andYolk. Her fourth novel,Pool House, just released today.
Several weeks ago the unthinkable happened: Myeyelinerwas finally discontinued. I won’t belabor the complicated relationship between a mono-lidded Asian woman and her eyeliner of choice, but the urgency is palpable. I have executed a thick black line on both lids for the past three decades, and my eyeliner for at least 20 years has been L’Oréal’s Lineur Intense Felt Tip Liquid Liner in 610 Black Mica.
I knew the day was coming. L’Oréal had long stopped even bothering to emboss the name of the liner onto the tubes, suggesting a diverted marketing budget and a rather dispassionate fulfillment of its remaining orders, but now even my bulk-purchased supply has been exhausted.
There’s arguments to be made to migrate toward another eyeliner modality. Anyone with a face — both young and old — on social media decries a fat, black, continuous line running the entire length of the lid as hideously antiquated. In this moment of blurred lips and hazy eyes, even the most ardent liquid-liner devotee might only apply at the wing, a single flick up and out or else a more generous isosceles wedge. And while most of these testimonials arise from the double-lidded, albeit some hood-lidded, even those amongst the mono-lidded community are doing a softened, brown-gray shadow with smudging at the water line, which, sadly, couldn’t be me. Ever.


Theprioritiesforitsreplacementinorderofimportanceareasfollows
Tip
The reason why the L’Oréal was my trusted steed was the tip and its rate of pigment distribution. I could accomplish a passably symmetrical cat’s-eye in under five minutes because the tip wasn’t too hard. The line didn’t skip on the soft, crepey skin of my lid and the conical shape of the tip meant I could do a fine line or lay it down flatter to create a fatter fill-in. As every liquid liner fan knows, the first moment a liner senses fear or hesitation, you’re almost always guaranteed going round and round on both eyes until you resemble a startled raccoon or have to start over, losing valuable rushing-out-the-door time.
Formula
My old liner truthfully wasn’t the best formula. Nor was it entirely waterproof. It also had a habit of crusting, which is to say that bits of it would begin flecking off upon hard wear rather than smudging over time. It would also dry out rapidly in the tube, but a single drop of micellar straight into the container and a vigorous shake would improve conditions greatly.
Price
I know and have known for years that the best tip dupe for my felt tipped L’Oréal Lineur Intense was the Lancome Artliner. But the prospect of leveling up from a $12 drugstore liner to a $36 one was abhorrent to me. My replacement, ideally, would be inexpensive enough that I could have minimally two to three going in various bags at once. That said, I would consider a more expensive liner for the tip alone because expediency and accuracy is my main priority since I am often late when leaving my house.
My top picks

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Far and away my favorite, despite not being at CVS. The nib is precise and the formula is terrific.

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The best more easily available option. Not entirely waterproof, but good enough for all-day wear.

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Nice, but not quite there. The tip is the same as L'Oreal's, but it requires a double coat.
Hard pass


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Oh, I loved the price and wanted to love the rest of it since NYX came heavily recommended. Sadly, I can’t condone it. It arrived completely dried out. As arid as the desert and entirely unsalvageable even with my desperate administering of life-giving micellar water. The brush was the smallest of all, shortest, thinnest, and even still featured a stray. There was a stubborn, wiry piece that had broken free of the nib that would scrawl a faint line that was indifferent to the efforts of the whole. I may have gotten a dud sample, but the tip alone doesn’t inspire any affection.
Nice but not quite


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Even while acknowledging my pecuniary biases, I would have happily converted to Lancôme’s Artliner were it the true dupe of my dreams. The tip, as promised, was exactly the same as the L’Oréal and while I could steer it with virtually the same level of skill and confidence, the formulation was a little anemic. It required a double coat, which is not a deal-breaker, but I also didn’t love that it was a screw top rather than a yank top. A fiddly chore before a fiddly chore is not my favorite.


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For someone who is routinely overwhelmed by Sephora as a shopping experience, I am usually a big fan of its house brand. Unsurprisingly, its nonbrush black liquid liner is a contender in many ways, but the nib is moody. While the tip is long and pliant, there’s little consistency with whether or not the line would draw regardless of how much pressure was applied. The formulation was truly formidable but ultimately felt a little plasticky to me.


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I imagine this is their Lineur Intense Felt substitute and while I had to overcome whatever resentments and biases I harbored for it not being the Felt Lineur Intense, I was pleased with the formulation. My quibble was that much like the Sephora tip, it was persnickety, the delivery would be inconsistent until the capillary action of the pigment would kick in which made it less trustworthy than I like. Trust is everything in that first moment of liquid-liner contact. It establishes the fate of the whole enterprise.


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This featured far more consistent delivery than the Sephora or L’Oréal, but its dependability comes at a price. The nib is too hard. Without sounding too much like eyeliner Goldilocks, the true line comes at the cost of an unyielding tip that causes drag and skips over the eyelid. If you move at a slow, deliberate pace, you fare better, but the process proves tedious once you consider that whatever line you commit to has to be accomplished twice. That said, the formulation is incredibly hardy. Possibly the most stalwart of the bunch and might be great for the oily lidded or those searching for a truly waterproof eyeliner grail. This does, of course require a little more effort in the removal.
My top picks


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Far and away my favorite. I was shocked by how much I loved it. And despite this liner not being readily available at any CVS, it is worth the forethought, planning, and price. The nib is exceptionally long, precise, and yielding enough that it doesn’t skip. The formulation is also terrific. True black. Matte and lasts all day but is easy to remove without rubbing or turning into little pigment pellets that inevitably scatter in your sink basin.


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This features a sponge tip that delivers beautiful liner coverage and dries quickly. The nib moves with precision for the absolute finest line, and you can move forward and backward to deliver pigment. That said, the tip is sensitive. Erring on the side of too precise for my needs, but this is not a deal-breaker. The formulation is also terrific but not entirely waterproof, though perfectly serviceable for all-day wear without migrating. All in all, since these are readily available on Amazon, I will likely keep a few on deck.
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