The Hottest Stone Now Is Carnelian
Until recently, I only thought of carnelian as the stone in the Hellenistic relics at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. It’s the kind of stone that I imagine gets discovered at an archaeological excavation — Tutankhamun’s mask was inlaid with carnelian plus lapis lazuli and turquoise — not a stone you’d see much in jewelry, fine or otherwise. (Unless you’ve been keeping an eye on Ted Muehling all along, that is.) But lately, there’s something of a carnelian rush going on. I noticed Le Sundial’s opera-length carnelian tassel on Leandra Medine Cohen in February and carnelian cabochons on the rings in J.Hannah x the Met’s second collection in May. Then there was the new Vertigo at Moda Operandi: Between aventurine and chiastolite, there was carnelian again. Even in recent weeks, I learnedthere are carnelian pieces by Corali at Tangerine and Lié Studio at Alex Mill’s Madison Avenue store. And it doesn’t feel like a coincidence that the newest acquisitions at antiques dealers Erica Weiner’s and Erie Basin’s shops include a carnelian collar circa 1860 and this squirrel watch fob dated to the turn of the century, respectively.
Why all the carnelian? It could have something to do with the stone’s red-orange-brown color, which is right in line with the rest of the earthen hues, like mushroom and radish, we’ve been seeing in everything from T-shirts to sake cups. (I’d liken carnelian to a persimmon or an heirloom tomato.) It also bears resemblance to jasper and coral, stones that have been used in the antiquities-inspired wares of Marisa Klass and Daga and Prounis for some time now. Maybe it’s carnelian’s talismanic properties. It represents strength and energy, if you believe in that kind of thing. No wonder Napoleon returned from his Egyptian campaign with a carnelian seal.
Here, some carnelian for your consideration:
New! You can now save this product for later.
New! You can now save this product for later.
Make a parure — often a gift Napoleon gave to Joséphine de Beauharnais and then his second wife, Marie Louise — with Mejuri’s matching Carmen pieces.
New! You can now save this product for later.
These are based on a “plain carnelian” from fifth century B.C. Cyprus that’s in the Met’s Cesnola Collection (named after the first director of the museum, Luigi Palma di Cesnola).
New! You can now save this product for later.
Veronica Beard’s line with Sylvia Toledano includes a bezel-set carnelian cabochon in clip-on form.
New! You can now save this product for later.
This reminds me of old Elsa Peretti, especially for the cord.
New! You can now save this product for later.
Between the 18-karat gold-plated rondelles are ditalini-like carnelian beads.
New! You can now save this product for later.
This was recently worn by Becky Malinsky …
New! You can now save this product for later.
… but I’m thinking of getting the bracelet (with the same clasp) myself.
New! You can now save this product for later.
A traditional intaglio depicting Pegasus, the hero Bellerophon’s mount.
New! You can now save this product for later.
I can imagine these carnelian cameos on Autumn de Wilde’s Emma Woodhouse.
New! You can now save this product for later.
New! You can now save this product for later.
As seen on Leandra Medine Cohen, next to an Indress ostrich-feather pin.
New! You can now save this product for later.
These petals of carnelian are hanging from a hammered 22-karat gold-plated collar.
New! You can now save this product for later.
Ted Muehling Acorns
New! You can now save this product for later.
Ted Muehling Berries
New! You can now save this product for later.
“It has been said that Colin Firth is ‘the thinking woman’s heartthrob,’ and this, too, is Ted Muehling as jeweler,” writes illustrator Joana Avillez. Muehling’s Acorns, Berries, and Long Berries are all available in carnelian (or chrysoprase and chalcedony).
New! You can now save this product for later.
Gabriella Kiss Bean
Did you know Gabriella Kiss was Ted Muehling’s apprentice? If I were to guess, Muehling’s Stone Rice influenced Kiss’s Bean (as did the Hudson Valley, where her studio is).
New! You can now save this product for later.
The carnelian in this Finding Nemo–themed charm has faceted sides like a fish’s scales.
New! You can now save this product for later.
Faris Bamini Ring
This is a version of Faris’s Bam Ring, explaining the name, Bamini.
New! You can now save this product for later.
There’s a Southwest influence to Vertigo, which sources its semi-precious stones (including jasper, jade, aventurine, serpentine, and tourmaline) from Phoenix.
New! You can now save this product for later.
Inspired by holidays that founder Juliana Liden spent in the beach town of Trancoso, Brazil.
New! You can now save this product for later.
New! You can now save this product for later.
New! You can now save this product for later.
The carnelian cabochons in J.Hannah x the Met’s second collaboration reference Hans Memling’s portrait of Tommaso Portinari and his wife, Maria Baroncelli; Barthel Bruyn the Younger’s of a member of the Slosgin family; and Judith With the Head of Holofernesby Lucas Cranach the Elder.
New! You can now save this product for later.
Jean Prounis modeled these after ancient alabastra (or vessels that held scents like amber and myrrh), each topped with a 22-karat-gold cap and bezel-set ruby.
More From The Strategist
- Hark, the Advent Calendars Arrived (Very) Early This Year
- The Best Things Strategist Editors Have Bought This Year (So Far)
- 63 Things You Should Never Buy Full Price
- The Strategist Fall 100
The Strategist is designed to surface useful, expert recommendations for things to buy across the vast e-commerce landscape. Every product is independently selected by our team of editors, whom you can read about here. We update links when possible, but note that deals can expire and all prices are subject to change.
