11 Very Specific Tokyo Mini-Guides

Photo-Illustration: The Strategist; Photos: Alyssa Lenore, Tara Kurobe, Kathleen Hou, Anna Archibald, Kevin Serai

Skip the picked-over multi-brand stores, find the gingko-lined backstreets, and take a midday bathhouse break. Pick up groceries in department-store basements and stock up at the “best beauty store in the world.” Here, 11 people with very good taste share their food, shopping, beauty, and kids-focused Tokyo itineraries.

“Tattoos are still somewhat taboo among the older Japanese, but the younger generation has come to embrace the art of body ink.Three Tides Tattoo, located in Shibuya, is a cool shop I first discovered in Osaka (its other location) seven years ago when I received my first piece from it. You can make appointments via email or walk in to schedule for a future date. It’s best known for riffs on Japanese aesthetics from woodblock prints to anime, but you can bring in your own inspiration or select from its books. I worked withAzufor my six-inch black-and-white cat tattoo, which cost around $400. My husband received a three-inch full-color piece of a rabbit archer for $650. I consider it a unique way to commemorate my trip.” —Kirsten Stuke, colorist at Suite Caroline Salon.

“After eight years of going to Tokyo, I’d say one of my favorite things to recommend is a past, present, and future of art day with three museums that are all within a short distance from one another. Start your day atRURUin Shibuya to fuel up with coffee and matcha. Then head to theNezu Museum, which is best for historic pieces. Make your way to theMori Art Museumfor modern art and end at21_21 Design Sight, founded by Issey Miyake with architecture by Tadao Ando. Come afternoon, get a little vintage shopping in. TheKapitalin Roppongi offers tax-free shopping and is a must for its Japanese denim and unique takes on Americana. Or head to Shimokitazawa and go toCaka. Akaru and his team offer a selection of ’80s and ’90s vintage, but they excel in their stock of leather jackets. Finally, for dinner make a reservation atCensu. Fumiyuki Kinsu and his staff fuse French, Japanese, and Chinese cooking. Get the “fxxing” chicken and cheeseburger egg rolls; they’re a must and usually stay on the ever-evolving menu —Toreno Winn, designer and stylist

“We’ve been to Tokyo five times in the past two and a half years. For where to stay, Akasaka is our preferred neighborhood — it’s quieter and less popular but perfectly situated for getting to either side of the city and all the major shopping areas.OMO3is our go-to as it’s affordable (around $130 a night), clean, and has a straightforward design. Tired from walking 20,000 steps daily? Our favorite way to take a break is to stop into asento(public bathhouse) for a quick soak in the hot tubs. We likeKohmeisenin Nakameguro, which has an open-air section and costs just $3 to enter. For dinner, make a reservation atNarukiyo, an omakase-style izakaya located inVort Aoyama, an office building. Sit at the bar and let the chef decide for you. In the past, we’ve had excellent sashimi, grilled Wagyu, and a delightfully simple appetizer of asparagus and tomato served with miso and Kewpie mayonnaise (a testament to the quality of the ingredients). Finally, head to the basement level of department stores likeDaimaru,Takashimaya, orIsetan. You’ll find the most beautiful grocery stores with fresh foods, produce, and specialty condiments. We always stop in to pick up good cooking mirin. Our favorite is Mikawa mirin, which is made from glutinous rice, koji (a fungus key for fermentation), and shochu. Also grab the curry-roux blocks in fun flavors like tomato curry!” —Anna Archibald and Kevin Serai, content creators,@cabagges.world

“Most places in Tokyo don’t open until 11 a.m., so take advantage of your jet lag and head to theMeiji Shrinein the early morning before the crowds arrive. After you’ve had your fill of trees and culture, go across the street toCosme, the best beauty store in the world, a combo of Sephora and Ulta. If you aren’t sure what to buy, check out the showcase in the middle of the store with the best-ranked and best-selling products in each category. You have not tried a real liquid eyeliner until you’ve tried a Japanese one (like the Love eyeliner, consistently a best seller). Next door to Cosme is a very largeMatsumoto Kiyoshi, a popular drugstore chain. Stock up on cooling patches for your calves (to recuperate from all the walking), makeup fromCanmake(Jenna Lyons turned me on to the cream blush from this brand), and the Fino hair mask that’s all over TikTok. Are some in your group uninterested in beauty? Send them to wait in line for the softest, fluffiest donuts atI’m Donut?, toKiddy Land(a multi-floor store devoted to animated-character goods with the likes of Miffy, Sanrio, and Snoopy), or to theOta Museum of Art(a small but very nice museum of Japanese woodblock prints).” —Kathleen Hou, beauty director ofElle

“My husband and I prefer going in November just before the holiday rush. The weather is ideal: 60s during the day and high 40s in the evening. Last time, we stayed atJanu Tokyo, the sister brand to Aman, so it has the same minimalist aesthetic, spacious rooms (a rarity!), and excellent service. We loved it so much I booked it again for my most recent solo birthday trip. The Japanese breakfast featuring grilled fish, rice, and pickles is not to be missed; I had it every morning I was there. For dinner, go toSumi, an intimate omakase experience around a live grill with a view of Tokyo Tower. It’s centrally located in Azabudai Hills with a Metro station right downstairs — very necessary since you’ll be walking so much around Tokyo every day. There’s plenty of shopping nearby, such as anOfficine Universelle Bulyoffering personalized combs, lip balms, and so much more that make great souvenirs and gifts. And for those who love an immersive experience, it’s a seven-minute walk toteamLab Borderless, a quieter alternative to teamLab Planets with no shortage of digital-art displays. Book the 9 a.m. slot and head to the ‘Infinite Crystal World’ exhibit, a glittering interactive light installation that feels as if you’re surrounded by starlight.” —Alyssa Lenore, content creator,@alyssalenore

“As a chef and food-content creator, I find one of the highlights of visiting Tokyo is a shopping spree onKappabashi’s kitchen street, a half-mile stretch in Taito (a bit farther out from central Tokyo) that’s famous for its concentration of restaurant-supply goods. Go toKama-Asafor high-end kitchen tools and knives with quality craftsmanship. We are especially fond of its cutting board (size L), which is made of a sturdy rubberlike, food-safe material that’s forgiving on knives and easy to maintain. For plateware, go toTakaso, a quintessential Kappabashi pottery store with rice bowls, nabe dishes, plates, cute chopsticks holders, and other beautiful ceramics. And for fun, visit theGanso Food Sample Shop, which sells not only restaurant-ready replicas of udon, burgers, and tempura but also cute little key chains with miniature foods and drinks. The key chains work especially well for souvenirs or adding a little personality to your bag.” —Jasmine Stoy and Musashi Osaki, content creators@madebymusashi

“Music has always been important to my husband and me, so we love to honor the late Nujabes, a well-known Japanese hip-hop producer, by visiting his brother’s ramen shop,Usagi Ramen, in Shibuya. Order the Tan Tan Men, which is a Japanese version of a very rich, fatty Sichuan noodle dish with plenty of numbing spices and buttery sous vide pork slices. For fashion fans, whenever I want to feel inspired, I love to visit theArchive Storein Shibuya. The curation of Comme des Garçons, Martin Margiela–era Hermès, and even Number (N)ine is immaculate. My favorite find was a pair of spring 2005 Undercover jeans with distressing and a ripped knee cut featuring the collection’s iconic “teeth lace.” They were $275! That being said, other prices can be upwards of thousands of dollars. Regardless of budget, browse and immerse yourself in the collection.” —Arianna Cho, co-ownerSake Bar Asoko

“I recently spent three months in Japan with my infant daughter and was hot to find cute, affordable baby clothes. A lot of the vintage and secondhand stores offer American-sourced vintage baby clothes, which are usually a bit overpriced because they’re imported. Head toKids 2nd and 2ndinstead. It has a massive selection of overstock and pre-owned (but in flawless condition) babies’ and kids’ clothes. You’ll find luxury designers like Dior and Gucci as well as premium Japanese brands like Miki House and Mezzo Piano and a smattering of indie labels like the Animals Observatory — for 90 percent off retail. I would book a flight just to go back there. If you need to buy diapers in Tokyo, look for the “natural” version of the brand Moony in drugstores calledWelciaandCocokara Fine. These “cashmere soft” Japanese diapers were the inspiration behind luxury NYC-based diaper brand Coterie, except they cost a third of the price!” —Kat Collings Wolf, editor-in-chief Who What Wear

“I have relatives in Tokyo, so I like to bring the entire family to visit yearly. With two sons under the age of 10, I find one of the easiest meals is kaiten zushi, or conveyor-belt sushi. Before you write it off as a tourist trap, the fish is fresh and high quality. We loveKura Sushi. It offers compartmentalized seating and options for every fussy palate, plus it’s fun to let the kids pick things off the belt and count the plates at the end. Another kid-friendly meal is pizza. The Japanese are master pizzaiolos, rivaling Italy — which is a big statement, but my husband is Italian and agrees.Seirinkanin Nakameguro serves only a margherita and a marinara option. Both are perhaps the best pizza we’ve ever had — ever. For activities, while Pokémon and Sanrio reign supreme, don’t sleep on theGhibli Museumin Mitaka. It’s annoying to get to, being an hour outside of Tokyo, but it’s an immersive delight. And should you want an alternative to Tokyo Disney or DisneySea, head toHanayashikiin Asakusa, which is the oldest amusement park in Japan and is fabulous. Think wooden roller coasters and creaky haunted houses!” —Tara Kurobe, publicist

“As it’s the home base of many of today’s most popular niche labels (kind of an oxymoron, I know) likeAuralee,visvim, andComoli, visiting a buzzy brand’s flagship store can feel like a mecca for IYKYK fashion nerds. Unfortunately, you will almost always find the selection picked over unless you’re fortunate enough to make it on a release day. Avoid wading through the dregs by hitting up multi-brand boutiques and good old department stores! Shops likeBiotopand1LDKare more curated boutiques that cater to the local Japanese customer, and they’re a boon for finding the pieces you wish were on the flagship racks since they’re not on the top of most tourists’ minds. Japanese department stores likeHankyuandIsetanenrich the retail experience with things like record rooms, very kawaii souvenir shops with exclusive merch from brands like Sanrio, and dedicated installations to particularly of-the-moment brands like Auralee. And if you’ve never had the pleasure of perusingIsetan’s legendary food court and enjoying a meal on the rooftop terrace, you must. I usually will get a bento box and some Amaou strawberries for dessert.” —Jian DeLeon, men’s-fashion director at Nordstrom

“We only go to Japan in November for kōyō season — the autumn leaves are more vivid and dynamic than cherry blossoms, especially in the backstreets of Gaienmae, where the ginkgo trees turn gold. Speaking of gold, visitTsubame Cafein Kamakura. The food is thoughtful and seasonal, the interiors are filled with Japanese antiques, and nearly everything is served onkintsugi-repaired ceramics (a mending technique using gold lacquer). Even the pavement outside has scattered fragments pressed into the concrete. For those who like to dive deeper into the art ofkintsugi, you can take a workshop. It takes time and patience — there’s a beautiful one offered throughOtonami, a popular local reservation site. You spend a few hours repairing broken ceramics with gold lacquer, learning not just the technique but the philosophy behind it: that cracks aren’t flaws but part of the story. It inspires my work atMilamore, a jewelry line with a boutique located nearby in Minato.” —George Inaki Root, founder ofMilamore

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