The At-Home Laser That Finally Got Rid of My Assertive Leg Hair

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Photo: Leah Finnegan

I have the kind of leg hair that grows back as I’m shaving it. It’s best described as … assertive: dark, coarse, and abundant. I have long wanted to be free from the itchy, messy, time-consuming undertaking of leg-hair removal, but the numbers to get rid of it have never added up. Last spring, I visited a local med spa to see how much it would cost to laser my legs. I was quoted $1,000 per leg for six sessions, and told that it was best to start in the fall or winter to minimize sun exposure, and also the hair might grow back after pregnancy.

Still, my agony persisted. Should I wax? Epilate? Wear pants for the rest of my life? Despite their robust follicles, my legs are also highly sensitive, and even with salicylic acid cleanser and intensive healing cream, they never emerge from a close, gentle shave looking like limbs I can be proud of. Which is how I came to be interested in an IPL device.

IPL — which stands for Intense Pulsed Light — is a technology invented in 1992 to treat vascular lesions. Today, it is used for acne, skin pigmentation, certain eye conditions, and, perhaps most revolutionary, at-home hair removal. An IPL device is equipped with a light that, when activated, targets the melanin in the hair follicle. Put simply, the reflection of the light heats the follicle and eventually the hair stops growing. What it lacks in the precision and power of laser hair removal it makes up for in cost and convenience.

After a few weeks of research, I chose theBraun Silk Expert Pro 5. I was swayed by its universally good reviews and the fact that it came with a three-month money-back guarantee, and also that it was on sale (at the time) for $299. I was immediately impressed by the results: After one — one! — session, my belligerent leg hair started to retreat. I’m now five weekly sessions into the recommended 12 and my leg hair, when it grows back, is softer and finer; there are patches of my leg that are totally hair free. In general, my legs look lessmiserable.And I feel that way, too!

Braun Silk-Expert Pro 5 IPL Hair Removal System
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IPL is not for everyone, but it might be for you. Here are some answers to the many questions I had before starting.

How do I use it?

The Braun looks like a big electricrazor, but instead of blades it comes with two different-sized light attachments, one for going over larger areas of skin and the other for smaller ones. To use it is pretty simple: Plug it in, press the button on its topside, and glide over your legs as if you were shaving. You can either hold down the button and do long strides — when pressed continually, the light flashes every couple of seconds, depending on which of the three strength settings you use — or stamp individual areas. I’ll glide it down my legs and stamp the finicky regions around my ankles and knees.

Before you jump in, it’s paramount to do a patch test by shaving a small area and trying the device on it. I waited about a day to see how my skin would respond and when all seemed well, I went for a full session. Whatever skin you use it on must be fully and freshly shaved so the device’s light can most effectively target hair follicles (and also so your house doesn’t smell like burnt hair). The Braun comes with a Venusrazor, which is a thoughtful touch, but it would be nice if they threw in some blade refills.

What makes someone a good candidate for IPL?

Contrast is important. IPL works best on light skin tones with dark hair. Darker skin absorbs more light, so all the flashing can lead to burning and discoloration. Conversely, IPL is less effective on red, gray, and blonde hair, which have trouble absorbing light at all. Braun provides askin-tone chartfor reference and says that using it on darker skin can cause “discomfort,” but someredditorssayit has worked for them, especially when used on the weakest setting. The device has a skin tone sensor that adjusts the power of the flash based on the skin it’s going over. If it’s too dark, or if the device is not making good enough contact, it won’t flash. In any case, that patch test is crucial.

There are other devices on the market that might say they’re better for darker skin, but buyer beware. The Ulike, which has gotten somerapturous reviews, comes with cooling technology that is supposed to make the entire procedure less painful, especially on darker skin. But the cooling technology can mask the pain of burning,leaving behind marks. (I’m a little wary of the Ulike in general, with its high price point and a website thatseems to be writtenby not-very-good AI.)

Does it hurt?

It’s not bad at all. Each flash feels like a little rubber-band snap. One thing I was not prepared for is how bright the light is — I ended up buying a pair ofsafety gogglesto wear while using it. Another thing I did not consider: how IPL would affect my tattoos. Do NOT use it anywhere you’re tattooed. Your tattoo will survive, but you will burn.

Is it harmful?

No. Side effects, which can include redness, itching, and burning, are rare, especially if you are following directions. I’m not usually an “adhere 100 percent to directions” person, but in this case I’m playing it by the book. The most important things are shaving beforehand (otherwise you will just be burning your hair) and sticking to the recommended cadence of sessions. Doing more than one a week can actually make the process less effective because of the hair’s growth cycle. You have to wait for the hair to grow back a little before you can attack the follicles again. Not doing so can cause irritation.

Any disadvantages?

It’s an involved and long process so it’s easy to lose steam. After shaving, I find a thorough IPL session takes about one and a half episodes of30 Rock. However, as my leg hair has lessened, time spent shaving has, too. Of course, there’s also human error to account for. Although I’m trying my best, I’m not doing as precise or thorough a job as a professional esthetician — there are definitely patches I’ve missed. And yes, the hair might still grow back with hormonal changes. But if you already have an IPL, it’s easier and cheaper to do touch-ups on your own time.

Overall, the Braun has been more than worth the cost. More than that, I’ve come to enjoy my Sunday-afternoon sessions. And actually getting rid of my leg hair? Nothing could be more satisfying.

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