My Hunt for the Perfect Men’s Gray Crewneck Sweatshirt

By,a writer and market editor in Cincinnati.His work has appeared in Huckberry, Sprezza, and Valet. He writes about menswear and fashion.
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Photo-Illustration: The Strategist; Photos: Retailers

I have several crewneck sweatshirts, but only one is gray, and it’s not ideal. It is from American Giant and super-heavyweight at 16 ounces. Because of the fabric’s heft, it bunches when I try to layer underneath and feels best worn on its own. For me, layering is an important part of the gray crewneck’s versatility: In the warmer months, when the temperature dips in the evening, I want one I can throw over a pocket tee or ablue oxford. Come fall and winter, I’d like to wear one under a denim jacket or a down puffer. Where black can feel too streetwear and navy can feel overly preppy, classic athletic gray is more versatile and doesn’t fade like the other two. And that has led me to look for more options.

My ideal gray crewneck has a ribbed round collar that sits close to the neck (no bacon neck, please). Instead of typical raglan sleeves (where the sleeve runs in one piece from the collar down to the underarm), I usually prefer set-in sleeves, where the seam sits right at the natural shoulder, because it has a trimmer fit and can be worn under a navy blazer. I also look for ribbed cuffs that fold cleanly and a ribbed hem that stays put (and can be folded under if needed).

I want a clean fit that’s neither too baggy nor too slim. I’m looking for a crewneck you can wear out to dinner. (For reference, I typically wear a size small, 36-inch chest, 14.5-inch neck, 30- to 31-inch waist, 33-inch-sleeve length.) When it comes to material, the less polyester, the better. For the interior, loopback cotton (which is also called French terry) or fleece works. I want a mid-weight fabric (11 to 14 ounces) and that recognizable ribbed V-stitch (the “Dorito”) at the collar — a vintage touch originally constructed to catch sweat and help the neckline hold its shape — but it’s not a deal-breaker if the latter is missing (which is often the case). And I prefer not a flat gray but a marled athletic mélange. Here are the gray crewneck sweatshirts I tried, all under $200, and the two winners I found.

Photos: Leon Hedgepeth; retailer.
Photos: Leon Hedgepeth; retailer.

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Russell’s modern crewnecks come in just about every size and color imaginable, with a fit that’s neither too snug nor too sloppy. But the brand loses me at the 50-50 cotton-poly blend. It’s a mid-weight sweatshirt (9 ounces), but I found it a little itchy. The V-stitch is just a decorative outline — no real ribbing, no charm. The wrists, neckline, and hem are ribbed, but it’s the fabric that’s the real offender. While Russell says its Dri-Power fleece wicks away sweat, I didn’t find the fabric breathable at all.

Photos: Leon Hedgepeth; retailer.
Photos: Leon Hedgepeth; retailer.

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I usually wear a small, but it was sold out — so I went with a medium for this sweatshirt. It’s designed to have that relaxed, slightly baggy fit with a drop-shoulder silhouette. I do like that the hem stays tucked under nicely, but when it doesn’t, it hovers somewhere close to my knees, which is way toolongfor a sweatshirt, especially just one size up from my usual small. There’s no V-stitch, but I like that the ribbing around the neckline and cuffs is neither saggy nor strangling. Comfort-wise, the Abercrombie is definitely softer than the Russell, but still a 70/30 cotton-poly blend, which is why it’s not one of my winners.

[Editor’s note: While this sweatshirt is sold out in light-gray heather, Abercrombie & Fitch told us it would be restocked soon.]

Photos: Leon Hedgepeth; retailer.
Photos: Leon Hedgepeth; retailer.

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Gap’s version has a drop shoulder similar to Abercrombie’s. The sleeves are relaxed, yet the overall body shape still fits nicely. It features a round ribbed collar that sits neatly on the neckline. Like the Abercrombie, it’s missing the classic Dorito around the neck area. The fabric is a heavyweight blend of 86 percent cotton and 14 percent recycled polyester, which felt far better on my skin than the more poly-heavy blends of the Russell and Abercrombie crewnecks.

[Editor’s note: The Heavyweight Oversized Sweatshirt is nearly sold out, but the same shirt is available in most sizeswith an embroidered logo.]

Photos: Leon Hedgepeth; retailer.
Photos: Leon Hedgepeth; retailer.

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I ownMadewell’s McCarren zip-up hoodieand love the relaxed fit — minus the giant hood — but I figured this crewneck would offer a similar fit and fabric, which it does. It’s made from a soft mid-weight (13-ounce) French terry — 85 percent cotton, 15 percent polyester — that already feels like it’s been gently broken-in.

The ribbing is where it should be, and, like most of the other sweatshirts on this list, there’s no V-stitch at the neck. It has drop-shoulder sleeves like the Abercrombie and Gap shirts, though Madewell’s are the most understated of the three, and the slightly tapered waist gives the illusion of a smaller waist and a longer body without becoming too much of an hourglass shape. The interior is cozy. Surprisingly, Madewell does not make a gray version, but the heather natural is an equally versatile alternative.

[Editor’s note: Please note sizing and availability is limited in this colorway.]

Photos: Leon Hedgepeth; retailer.
Photos: Leon Hedgepeth; retailer.

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J.Crew’s 14-ounce crewneck sweatshirt is hands down the best value for under $100. It’s cut on the cross grain to keep shrinkage at bay, and the interior is brushed for that cozy softness. Compared to others on the list, it feels substantial — it’s stiff at first but breaks in nicely over time.

The ribbing around the wrists is clutch, especially since I tend to fold them up — these sleeves run just a touch long, so it helps having something more structured whenever the sleeves are folded. Folding the bottom hem makes it land right at the waist on me, creating a clean-cut silhouette. This shirt does have the ribbed V-stitch. It ticks almost every box, except it’s 84 percent cotton and 16 percent polyester.

Photos: Leon Hedgepeth; retailer.
Photos: Leon Hedgepeth; retailer.

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Vancouver-based Reigning Champ used to make my all-time favorite sweatshirts back when they were still producing everything in Canada. (The brand only manufactures there for limitedcollaborationsnow.) They had a certainheftthat couldn’t be replicated. While its crewnecks aren’t produced in Canada anymore, they at least are still made from 100 percent cotton.

I tried on the relaxed-fit shirt, which feels like something straight out of the ’90s — loose and baggy. The construction is still solid: ribbed neck, wrists, bottom hem, and side panels. There’s not muchshapeto the shirt; however, it lies flat, even when I tuck the bottom hem. For a better fit, I probably should have gone with theslim option.

Photos: Leon Hedgepeth; retailer.
Photos: Leon Hedgepeth; retailer.

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Fit-wise, the Buck Mason sweatshirt leans slim. I went with a small, but if you prefer a roomier silhouette, size up. Still, I found this shirt easy to layer. The hem is short and boxy (typical in 1940s-era crewnecks), with a wide, sturdy ribbed waistband, and the body of the sweatshirt puffs slightly above your pants. The sleeves fit nicely, though I wouldn’t mind a touch more space for my arms. There’s a ribbed V-stitch at both the front and back necklines — a subtle but satisfying detail. Made from 100 percent French terry cotton, it’s soft against the skin. The bottom hem line is a tad too slim and creeps up as you wear it throughout the day, which is why it’s not one of my winners.

The Winners

Photos: Leon Hedgepeth; retailer.
Photos: Leon Hedgepeth; retailer.

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Like its T-shirts, Merz b. Schwanen’s crewneck is exceptional for this category. Made from 100 percent organic cotton in an ideal 11-ounce weight, the recycled brushed-fleece interior is soft and not the least bit itchy. It has the ribbed V-stitch ribbed cuffs and waist — ones that pop a little more, which I love — and a garment-dyed finish that gives it that perfect gray-mélange look.

Photos: Leon Hedgepeth; retailer.
Photos: Leon Hedgepeth; retailer.

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Jonathan Anderson introduced this now-perennial favorite to Sunspel’s collection back when he was the creative director (2009-2014). It’s made from classic loopback cotton. There’s the signature V-stitch and a more streamlined set-in shoulder. The body is pure cotton, while the ribbed areas feature 5 percent elastane. The fit leans slim — and is true to size — making it ideal for wearing under a blazer, denim jacket, or topcoat. The sleeves aren’t too long, and the bottom hem can be folded under without looking or feeling restrictive. The small amount of elastane also helps the sweatshirt retain its shape after wear and once it’s hung to dry.

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