My Hunt for Handsome Nonbinary Flats
Sometimes a shoe gets stuck in your head. For the last few months, it’s been Lemaire’s Anatomic slip-on, a men’s shoe with a smooth vamp molded to hug the shape of the foot. There’s a trend in menswear toward formal shoes so streamlined that they almost resemble ballet flats — this Bode opera pump is another example — that has now wormed its way into my brain. After a summer of beaten-up sneakers and Vibram Fivefingers, I was missing a pair of shoes nicer than a sneaker and more lightweight than a pair of boots, something I could wear with socks on a brisk autumn night or dress up for a wedding. Those Lemaire flats would be perfect.
There were two problems. First, the Lemaire flats cost $800, far out of my budget. And in searching for an alternative, I’m limited by a cosmic mistake in which I developed under the influence of estrogen rather than testosterone, limiting my height to five-foot-one with size 37 feet rather than six feet of height as God intended (I assume). I wanted sleek menswear flats, but they had to come in a size range that included the smaller end of the spectrum.
It felt like a tall order, but I was surprised to find plenty of options. As comic artist Mattie Lubchansky says, gender-inclusive fashion just means making all clothing for all shapes and sizes. We’re not there yet, but a growing number of shoe companies manufacture their designs in a full range of sizes without differentiating for gender. I’ve listed the range for every pair below, although some options on this list have a smaller size run. (And if you’re a woman with larger feet, I highly recommend author Angela Flournoy’s shoe guide in the Secret Strategist newsletter.)
My top picks
The ones that didn’t cut it
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Size range: W5-W12
I’m a fan of Intentionally Blank, a shoe company based in Hudson, New York, that makes well-made, well-priced, and trendy shoes, but these babouche-y flats missed the mark for me. Out of the shoes I tried, Intentionally Blank’s leather was missing some of the suppleness of its competitors, which created a less structured shoe.
The contenders
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Size range: EU 35-42
Camper makes a great shoe, and the Casi Myra flat is no exception. It’s well-made with thick, substantial leather and a line of stitching that mimics the fold-down back of a babouche. I didn’t love the deep V on the vamp, which kept this pair out of the top three, but if you don’t mind the shape, they’re a great choice.
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Size range: W6-W12
I thought these shoes might skew masculine in a dandy-going-to-the-theater way, and I stand by the brass buckle as an accessory with great menswear potential. Ultimately, though, I found the sole too thin for my taste — these are a great shoe, but best for those looking for a true ballet flat.
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Haruta Leather Mule
Size range: W5.5-W8.5; M7-M10
These leather mules, made by Japanese brand Haruta and distributed by Front General Store, are a true pleasure to handle. The leather is thick, glossy, and precisely molded into an egg-shaped curve, and they’re relatively comfortable to wear. They run small — I tried a W7 and couldn’t wear them with socks; I would size up a half or whole size depending on how loose you like your mules — and the top of their size range is also relatively small at an M10. (A style with a curved back, the Spock, is linked below.)
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Miista Els Mules
Size range: W5-W13.5
The Miista Els are the most loaferlike of the shoes I tried, thanks to a narrow buckle running over its high tongue. They’re beautifully made and well-designed — the back can fold down like a babouche to turn the shoe into a slide, or folded up for a more traditional fit. I found them a hair too formal for my purposes, but I’d recommend them to anyone seeking an interesting alternative to traditional dress shoes. I was also impressed by their size range, which goes all the way up to a W13.5.
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Size range: W5-W11; M6.5-M12; can submit a tracing for custom fit
I first heard about Aurora Shoe Company from designer Bill McNicol, who named its T-strap as his most-worn summer shoe. The shoes are handmade in upstate New York from wonderfully thick leather. The details are less polished than the other shoes I tried, which make these feel more casual — I enjoyed wearing these a lot and took them out on a walk in the woods. A great pair of shoes, more of an everyday clog than a formal shoe.
The winners
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Cruda Solo Flat
Size range: EU 36-45
When you fall in love, it doesn’t make sense. These square-toed flats are awkward, arguably unflattering, and I absolutely love wearing them. They’re insanely comfortable, made of a slipperlike leather with a cushioned footbed inside. The shape is so toothsome and weird. Not for everyone, but these were my clear favorite.
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Size range: EU 35-44
The Suzanne Rae Glove shoe came the closest to the Lemaire flats — they have a high vamp, smooth upper, and are made of smooth molded leather. They’re well-made and quite comfortable and look great with a pair of socks. (Strategist senior writer Lauren Ro loves the brand’s opera pumps, which are made of patent leather and embellished with a grosgrain bow.)
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Size range: EU 35-50
There is no contest — these Jacques Solovière flats are the best-made pair I tested. The molded toe and drawstring vamp made me want to go to the factory and see how these are made. They are the most expensive pair on the list, but are a worthwhile special-occasion shoe — forget wedding-guest shoes, they’re shoes I’d wear to my own wedding. They also have the widest size range, from a 35 all the way up to 50.
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