Can a Perfume Actually Make Me Feel Better?
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Lately, my inbox has been flooded with emails about “functional fragrances.” I’ve also noticed an uptick in videos on the category on TikTok (or #fragrancetok) while beauty retailers are stocking morefragranceandbody carewith scents claiming to boost your mood.
So what exactly are functional fragrances? They’re scents designed to elicit some sort of a response: a better mood, more focus, instant calm. These formulas combine the ritual of fragrance with intentional wellness benefits.
Is functional fragrance just aromatherapy 2.0?
If you’re first thought was,Wait, isn’t that the idea behindaromatherapy?,you wouldn’t be wrong — or alone. That was my first question, too. But there is a difference, says Dr. Alexis Granite, dermatologist and founder ofJoonbyrd, a body-care line developed with functional fragrances designed with Givaudan, the world’s largest manufacturer of flavors and fragrances.
“Aromatherapy has always used certain scents with the intention to soothe or energize,” says Dr. Granite. “For example,lavender for calmor citrus for uplift.” The difference is aromatherapy scents are one single essential oil or very simple blends. “Functional fragrances are more complex and scientific,” she says. The category relies on neuroscience-based testing such as MRIs to see what areas of the brain are activated and EEGs to measure brain waves patterns. “You can actually see how and where the notes influence the brain,” she says.
So what notes do functional fragrances use?
There’s a biological reason scent is so closely tied to how we feel. Unlike our other senses, smell has more of a direct pathway to the emotional centers of the brain. “The olfactory system is linked to the limbic system, a very primitive part of the brain that’s closely associated with emotion and memory,” says Granite. “Oftentimes, a scent will register before you’re even consciously aware of it.”
That’s why functional fragrances tend to rely on notes we already have emotional associations with. For example, we know citrus notes such as grapefruit, bergamot, and orange are thought to be uplifting and energizing (Clinique Happy), whilelavender is a go-to for calming. “Vanilla is known to help people feel comforted, cozy, and nostalgic; coffee is for focus,” she says.
In functional fragrances, perfumers combine multiple notes and aromatic compounds to create a more complex emotional effect. The fragrance houses can then use neuroscience testing to confirm that the intended mood effect is actually triggered.
Some scent experts aren’t sure they work
Functional fragrances may be generating big buzz, but not all perfumers are convinced by the claims. Darryl Do, a veteran perfumer and founder ofDelbia Do Fragrances, cautions that a lot of brands are jumping on the bandwagon without any documented evidence. “If they’re making claims that a fragrance can change your mood or improve focus, that’s essentially a medical claim,” he says. “And if there’s no clinical testing, it’s hard to take that seriously.” He says often the studies that exist have been done on raw materials, not the final product. Some brands are just piggybacking off of existing science. Do warns that unsupported claims could invite regulatory scrutiny like we saw with the topical CBD craze.
The bottom line: Functional fragrances are enjoyable but not a miracle mood boost.
Functional fragrances are fascinating — the science, the scents, the way certain notes can evoke energy, calm, or comfort. But while some fragrance house are exploring neuroscience and testing, not every product making bold mood claims has the studies to back it up. Enjoy these scents for what they are — an afternoon pick-me-up, a moment of calm, or just a scent you love — not as a miracle mood fix.
I put a few functional fragrances to the test. Find out if they worked below.
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This French brand has been developing functional fragrances since 2015. Its latest launch is designed to energize, empower, and connect. I expected a zesty citrus, but what I discovered was a soft and pretty white floral with a hint of citrus via ylang-ylang, magnolia, and bergamot. It also has comforting vanilla and musk that grounds and balances the airy scent. I don’t have a dramatic mood shift while wearing, but I do feel light and comforted at the same time. It is a splurge, but it’s a really beautiful scent.
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This isn’t a fragrance but a body butter developed with functional fragrance. And as the name “Sunday Sofa” implies, it’s designed for deep comfort. The notes include vanilla, chocolate, cardamom, musk, and white lily. It smells delicious, but it’s far more sophisticated than most gourmand body creams smell. I’m applying the rich cream to my skin while on deadline and I think I am feeling a little more relaxed, or maybe pleasantly pleased. I could seriously inhale this scent all day.
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Biology Joy is a natural fragrance oil in eau de parfum form. It’s billed as “sunlight captured in scent.” On first whiff, it’s bright and vibrant with bergamot, but then it’s softened by jasmine and tuberose gives it a velvety finish. I wouldn’t say I feel pure joy, but it does make me feel content.
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This body-oil mist smells like traditional aromatherapy oils. It has that herby, spalike scent. It contains lavender said to help with clarity and serenity. I could use both. This one does make me feel calm while wearing it, but that may be because I associate its scent with a relaxing spa environment.
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