My Hunt for a Nonplastic Swimsuit
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A visit to the Wall Street Spa last winter led me to what I thought was a paranoid Google search: “polyester swimsuit in hot sauna toxic?”
Results revealed that sweating into a tight tube of synthetic fabric for hours at a time probably isn’t ideal for the human body. Studieshave suggestedthe toxic chemicals in nylon and polyester sports clothes can be absorbed into the skin when it sweats, potentially causing a range of adverse health effects in the long term. Even at normal temperatures, synthetic swimsuitsshed microplasticsinto the surrounding environment while you’re swimming in them or putting them through a laundry cycle.
I haven’t returned to the sauna recently (mainly because my apartment turns into one from June onward), but Ihavebeen swimming a lot at the beach and sweating it out on the sand between dips. So I’ve been trying the interesting (but limited) number of nonplastic swimsuit options currently on the market.
Is nonplastic swimwear even possible?
Ecofriendly swimwear is usually made of hemp or cotton that’s woven with a small percentage of elastane for stretch. Elastane (also known as Lycra or spandex) is technically a type of plastic (there is truly no escape), which is why sustainably focused brands try to keep its use to a minimum. But a non-stretchy swimsuit simply won’t stay on in the water, so some compromise is necessary.
Wool-and-elastane blends are another option, particularly for men’s swim trunks. This sounds a bit itchy and Edwardian, but actually a lot of hiking and outdoor clothing is made ofmerino wool(which is just as breathable and quick-drying as polyester), setting a precedent for swimwear.
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A grid-post-worthy (but tellingly stretchy) swimsuit
Beach towelsare nearly always made of 100 percent cotton, so I assumed those cute, influencer-beloved terrycloth bikinis you see around the place would be the same. I was wrong. Almost all of them, especially on the more affordable side, are made of polyester terry rather than cotton because that’s just the world we live in. Triangl’s Vinca Bonn set is an exception at 70 percent cotton, 30 percent elastane.
I was happy with the look and fit of this striped bikini, the design of which recalls the carefree ’70s, a decade when nobody worried about how many plastic spoons were in their brain. It was just as stretchy as the nylon styles I’d worn previously, and the terrycloth was thin enough to dry relatively quickly. But it turned out the elastane was almost entirely isolated to the lining and straps, meaning my skin was touching plastic the entire time. I continued my search.
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A low-elastane (but slightly stiff) swimsuit
Natasha Tonic is a leader in the sustainable and nontoxic swimwear space. Her bikinis and one-pieces are made to order, reducing waste and adding to their environmental credentials. And the designs range from tie-dyed triangle bikinis to unabashedly retro belted one-piece costumes inspired by those worn by Coco Chanel in the 1920s.
I tested the ruched Angel bikini, which is made from hemp, cotton, and (4 percent) elastane to give the side ties some stretch. The lining is thick and T-shirt-y, which took a bit of getting used to and offered little in terms of compression. While swimming I was definitelyawareof the slightly stiffer fabric, which isn’t the case when I wear skintight nylon. But it didn’t get waterlogged or drag at all, which was my initial fear. Nor did it become see-through. And the adjustable straps meant it stayed put when I dove under waves.
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A magically stretchy (yet nearly 100 percent cotton) swimsuit
The best and least-synthetic swimsuits I tried came, bizarrely, from the natural corn-chip brand Masa. I don’t totally have an explanation for this, but if its corn chips are as good as its swimsuits, I recommend them for your next party.
Masa’s cotton suits were amazingly thin and stretchy. Yet they contain only a tiny amount of elastane (less than 2 percent) just around the leg and armholes. Better still, the elastane is wrapped in cotton so your skin never touches the plastic. (The brand also uses nontoxic dyes. Julianne Moore would totally wear these inSafe.)
The cotton fabric has aunique crinkle texturethat’s not unlikeHunza G’s, though it’s not quite stretchy enough to be one-size-fits-most. It skims over the body while providing a bit of compression and dries quickly. The texture also helps distract from the fact that you’re visibly wearing a swimsuit made of cotton.
What surprised me most is that both the one-piece and bikini styles were well cut and flattering. The one-piece has a scooped neckline and low back as well as a front zipper that’s a bitBaywatch.The bikini has a deep V-neckline, offsetting any worries about looking dowdy in your eco-friendly beach getup.
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Is a plastic bikini really something to worry about?
Plastic is everywhere, and it’s obviously best to focus on reduction rather than elimination.Some swapsare easier to make than others — woodencutting boards, metalwater bottles, glassstorage containers. As for swimwear (as well as yoga pants, sports bras, and other synthetic sports clothes), you’d be forgiven for sticking with nylon for now. Especially as synthetic styles are much more chlorine resistant and stretchy, which is relevant for serious lap swimmers.
In the nearish future, I predict natural fibers will abound in the swimsuit aisle. If you can’t wait until then, the limited crop of current designs is surprisingly nice. And any dark-colored cotton underwear with a stretchy waistband already in your drawer will also do the trick.
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