Does UPF Protective Clothing Work?

By,a senior editor at The Strategist.She has contributed to the New York Times and T: The New York Times Style Magazine and worked for New York Review Books.
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After getting my first bad sunburn of the season — a scalding on my back so red and strangely shaped it resembled a painting by Miró — I started to wonder about UPF clothing. In the past, I’d noticed “UPF” primarily attached to products from outdoorsy brands like Lands’ End, which stocks sensible “active five-pocket pants” with a UPF 50 rating, and L.L. Bean, where you can find everything from UPF protectivetunicstozip-off convertible pants for kids. But recently, a new batch ofUPF-focused brands has emerged, focusing on sun-protectiveswimwearand daywear that at first glance don’t look so technical. There’s the minimalist lineépoque évolution, which produced aUPF protectivecollection includingsleek pencil skirts and crop tops, andMott50, theChrissy Teigen–endorsedpurveyor of UPF-imbued, avocado-adorned turtleneck one-pieces. J.Crew came out with a line of fairly elegantUPF 50 rash guards, and Athleta madeappealing color-blocked sets. All clothing that would allegedly protect you from sunburn and, increasingly, things you’d actually want to wear. I was curious: What exactlyisUPF, and is it worth buying clothes that have it?

The easiest way to understand UPF, it turns out, is that it’s kind of like havingsunscreen built into your clothing. UPF stands for “ultraviolet protection factor,” a rating system similar to the SPF rating system of sunscreens and cosmetics. While SPF measures how effectively a sunscreen blocks out the sun’s ultraviolet B rays (commonly referred to as UVB), which are thought to be those that do the most damage to skin, UPF measures how effectively a fabric blocks both ultraviolet B rays andultraviolet A rays — meaning it goes even further to protect your skin from harmful rays. As with SPF, a higher UPF rating means greater protection: According to this very handy chartfrom REI, a UPF rating of 15 to 20 is good, while a rating between 40 and 50 or higher is excellent.

The UPF rating of an item of clothing depends largely on the textile’s composition. “It really depends on the color and weight of the material,” saysDr. Evan Rieder, a dermatologist at NYU Langone. The darker the color, tighter the weave, and heavier the fabric, the more UV rays will be blocked. According to Rieder, plenty of clothes in your closet may already have UPF — “I’ve never seenjeansbranded as UPF, but a dark jean, by its very nature, has a superhigh UPF factor,” he says.

Of course, the discomfort of wearing a pair of dark-wash jeans on a 100-degree day may rival that of asunburn— which is where the new UPF-focused brands come in. “Brands likeCoolibarandSolumburaare making things that are easy to wear and have sun protection built in because nobody wants to wear a jean shirt in the summer,” saysDr. Angela Lamb, the director of Westside Mount Sinai Dermatology. “Does everybody outside every day need to wear it? No. But if you’re going to have a lot of direct sun exposure with no shade and without opportunities to reapply sunscreen, then it’s really great.” And if you’re worried about overheating,Dr. Debra Jalimanoffers a helpful tip: “Buy SunGuard. It’s a laundry aid that you put in with the wash, and it imbues UV protection into your favorite cotton T-shirt. It adds UPF 30 to your clothes for 20 washes.”

Some actually stylish UPF clothing

J.Crew Solid Long-sleeved Rash Guard
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J.Crew’s simple, nice-looking rash guard could be worn as your main beach top or could be packed in yourbeach bag, should you want to throw it on over your bikini top instead of applying sunscreen to your shoulders and back for the tenth time.

Athleta Asym Color-blocked Rash Guard
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The color-blocking on this Athleta set is a far cry from UPF clothing’s crunchier roots — we’d even wear the short-sleeved top with some lounge shorts for running errands (but for the beach, somematching bottoms).

époque évolution The One Two Dress
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A surprisingly chic UPF 50 little black dress from newcomer époque évolution that can be worn as a V-neck or a boatneck and has pockets.

Coolibar Women’s Windley Beach Pants UPF 50+
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Light-colored clothing naturally has a lower UPF factor than darker clothing, which is why it may be a good idea to look to UPF-focused brands like Coolibar for light but sun-safe pieces. These white “beach pants” have a whiff of early aughtsloungewearto them.

Mott50 Celeste Underwire Swim Bra
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Mott50 Joana High Rise Moderate Coverage Swim Bottom
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From the line that made Chrissy Teigen’savocado-print long-sleeved swimsuitcomes an appealingly minimal two-piece alternative with a cut reminiscent of cool swimwear lines like Nu Swim and Araks.

Coolibar UPF 50+ Women’s Malta Travel Shirtdress
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Long sleeves in the summer may seem like a pain, but thisstripedshirtdress is lightweight enough that you won’t overheat — and will save you the annoyance of reapplying sunscreen to your arms all day.

L.L.Bean Adults’ No Fly Zone Baseball Hat
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A hat is always a good idea for sun protection, better yet if it has added UPF built in.

Coolibar Men’s Spencer Chambray Shirt UPF 50+
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If youdowant to wear a denim shirt in summer, Coolibar makes this UPF 50 number that reminds us of our favoritedenim button-down.

Uniqlo Men Airism UV Protection Long-Sleeved T-Shirt
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Your favorite solidUniqlolong sleeve but with added sun protection. And since it’s from the brand’s Airism line, you know it will keep you cool even on sweltering days.

Patagonia Men’s 5 inch Baggies - Phosphorous Green
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UPF clothing treatment

Rit SunGuard Laundry Treatment UV Protectant
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You can add UPF protection to any of your clothes by washing them with this UV-protectant treatment from SunGuard, which comes recommended by Dr. Jaliman (just note that the UPF 30 will last for 20 washes, after which you’ll need to treat the clothes again).

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